tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41861714337279320942024-03-19T06:08:06.487-07:00Antarctica - 2009Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-57665824586699271342010-01-04T09:38:00.000-08:002010-01-04T09:59:16.116-08:00Ushuaia convalescence...<b style=""><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB"><font size="5">Thursday 17 December – January 5, Ushuaia</font><o:p></o:p></font></b> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">Ok, let’s hope I am not tempting fate here by fixing Jan 5 as the departure date, given I’m writing this on the 3<sup>rd</sup>! By Tuesday I will have been here for nearly three weeks, here being the Hotel Lennox in Ushuaia.<font style=""> </font>On arrival back in December I was taken straight to the hospital where x-rays confirmed two hairline fractures of my pelvis.<font style=""> </font>The doctors recommended complete rest and accordingly I checked into this hotel to begin my convalescence.<font style=""> </font><o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">I wasn’t expecting to be here for so long:<font style=""> </font>initially I understood there was a stretcher service between Ushuaia and Buenos Aires which would have allowed me to travel much earlier.<font style=""> </font>However, it turned out there wasn’t and I was obliged to spend at least 10 days here to recover sufficiently to allow me to travel in a normal seat – even on business class.<font style=""> </font>And then the doctors here decided that my recuperation time should not include the week on the boat because they couldn’t assess the degree to which I had had proper rest.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYbHvjHY07PfJ1IYFatJK-VCrTQNfghMSrCJpNYpgn5AFaZ9GN7A3Qg6095ExzJ86GWnqmvWHsDPcgUUmaUVcBDlRA1ZgJQruPfpm9b0XlNUPbb5X45PqdgAb6AoLokcIyM7Dp_Bvovbqi/s1600-h/DSC05968.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYbHvjHY07PfJ1IYFatJK-VCrTQNfghMSrCJpNYpgn5AFaZ9GN7A3Qg6095ExzJ86GWnqmvWHsDPcgUUmaUVcBDlRA1ZgJQruPfpm9b0XlNUPbb5X45PqdgAb6AoLokcIyM7Dp_Bvovbqi/s320/DSC05968.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422943914292632418" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">So I had to pretty much stay in bed until new year’s eve when I was finally allowed to get up and gingerly walk around with one of those zimmer frames! Looks great<o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">But the time here has been ok.<font style=""> </font>I have been fortunate that a lot of people stayed on in Ushuaia for a few days and then one person from the boat, Frida, is still here as she is looking for work.<font style=""> </font>The first few days it felt like there was a revolving door at Room 109 as people popped in on a regular basis.<font style=""> </font>Picnics were organised on two consecutive days over the weekend and all was looking good!<font style=""> </font>By the first Monday, however, most had departed and only Frida and Kelvin remained.<font style=""> </font>Kelvin was busy organising the next part of his trip from Antarctic to the Artic – see <a href="http://www.ratheroddjourney.ca/">www.ratheroddjourney.ca</a> for the details – but he took time to film my final thoughts for the documentary of the trip he is making: I’m looking forward to seeing the results!!<font style=""> </font>Frida has stayed on here, looking for a job as she seeks to complete the next phase of her world cycling tour – she has already cycled from Switzerland to here, one of the reasons why she is know as “chica loca”.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt06elu9hVlkiXOb_CNOsyc12xayEnVgaoxZKHd-wfRSoimogGZs-mj7ZScdwVU_zALXUQ1n9F3Gpm6-w7lpWahptQSNvoPQ3CKj9hJyo0XxCoj9OMgu7enrG-jstymaw7hjTUVEiTiQAE/s1600-h/DSC06133.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt06elu9hVlkiXOb_CNOsyc12xayEnVgaoxZKHd-wfRSoimogGZs-mj7ZScdwVU_zALXUQ1n9F3Gpm6-w7lpWahptQSNvoPQ3CKj9hJyo0XxCoj9OMgu7enrG-jstymaw7hjTUVEiTiQAE/s320/DSC06133.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422945163845868434" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">Although there are many other reasons!<font style=""> </font>She has been great company and has come up with good ideas to keep me entertained, ranging from bringing the 10 year old son of the Argentine family she was staying with to play Nintendo games, to introducing me to a fellow sailor she met, Georgia, with whom we enjoyed a few home-cooked meals!<o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">And the most important person here has been Hugo, the nurse who has been coming in to see me three times a day.<font style=""> </font>He has done a great job and I have enjoyed chatting to him in Spanish, mimicking a Northern Argentine accent (he is from Salta) and learning about his job and studies here: he works nights in the intensive care unit of the hospital and is studying to become a biology teacher.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRKg59wZF-Hrz9AZwCLcgqze491hWInKU6vqO5s74G8eR53su9FFyi7H6dR1-5hl_n30ruCZEzIydbrPThyphenhypheng94U6zzcAmYnWcwY54GktmLkTBKYOP8BK-yhstl-m_uZvhHBUHKzYxAje7P/s1600-h/DSC06031.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRKg59wZF-Hrz9AZwCLcgqze491hWInKU6vqO5s74G8eR53su9FFyi7H6dR1-5hl_n30ruCZEzIydbrPThyphenhypheng94U6zzcAmYnWcwY54GktmLkTBKYOP8BK-yhstl-m_uZvhHBUHKzYxAje7P/s320/DSC06031.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422943927600823330" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">I’m sure he will do a top job!<font style=""> </font>He also keeps fish, rather more successfully than some of my efforts!<font style=""> </font>As he recently bought tropical fish, I bought him a penguin to go in the tank and he named, after some persistent lobbying, two of the new fishes after “paciente ingles” and “chica loca”.<font style=""> </font>Poor fish will be traumatized.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpr7SkA2DYbmT8a7klLd8Dt1G4Xhhj06f7M3WMfV09iClv8zNJfTegDOakpXTasDN74jcuUBQdaMPDf3iiXF9ut8ip4gzJGfLAx0EtjRLH6aiNXEfrqiHyCLBebbAv5c3FKO93_BozNXoD/s1600-h/Chica+LOca.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpr7SkA2DYbmT8a7klLd8Dt1G4Xhhj06f7M3WMfV09iClv8zNJfTegDOakpXTasDN74jcuUBQdaMPDf3iiXF9ut8ip4gzJGfLAx0EtjRLH6aiNXEfrqiHyCLBebbAv5c3FKO93_BozNXoD/s320/Chica+LOca.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422943908945761874" border="0"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibQd7lXuPhe0m5HN9ns3iPZ9U1_zSCCoGQW175aakrAuBzgBLgmjBRHJ2-zAWbesGXMLrUsL24KP2ayWuwpgeRtVQulvmFcK5Bh-IenvyOegcfe0l6DHa5Z-slARWalVP5scr1n6TsLOHr/s1600-h/Penguin.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibQd7lXuPhe0m5HN9ns3iPZ9U1_zSCCoGQW175aakrAuBzgBLgmjBRHJ2-zAWbesGXMLrUsL24KP2ayWuwpgeRtVQulvmFcK5Bh-IenvyOegcfe0l6DHa5Z-slARWalVP5scr1n6TsLOHr/s320/Penguin.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422945176064348930" border="0"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizClIvJvrJalUo5OTTu68tsg1392x87uMtF2SJSl16VAQI752LomDq1JPmLWXWzlVARAceBYLs63HT0V6aMOiUSgCeDx4H3fCyxOe3HmbbrHeZ_SH5TgxO6BzSQX6aqfPevTqTJ_rJPmHk/s1600-h/Paciente+Ingles.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizClIvJvrJalUo5OTTu68tsg1392x87uMtF2SJSl16VAQI752LomDq1JPmLWXWzlVARAceBYLs63HT0V6aMOiUSgCeDx4H3fCyxOe3HmbbrHeZ_SH5TgxO6BzSQX6aqfPevTqTJ_rJPmHk/s320/Paciente+Ingles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422945170009514194" border="0"></a><br /><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">Christmas Day was fun in Hotel Lennox: no changes were made to the menu (which is one of the most limited you could imagine) but Frida and I enjoyed Christmas Argentine lunch and some good wine and champagne, and whiskeys – although how we ordered the spirits is still a mystery to me!<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5jkTpOTuz4TWiB3ILid26UPurA9MbUprGGIFTArbIhkS6fwsY8Y6XSS9WUGUR4usjTikVMiySaY7nJcC0JdhkLdKPxx8JnzuCZiFcNQwBtjMmU8_-XBV61ROERAjMvIMuA9AT-1ZyZNy/s1600-h/DSC06023.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5jkTpOTuz4TWiB3ILid26UPurA9MbUprGGIFTArbIhkS6fwsY8Y6XSS9WUGUR4usjTikVMiySaY7nJcC0JdhkLdKPxx8JnzuCZiFcNQwBtjMmU8_-XBV61ROERAjMvIMuA9AT-1ZyZNy/s320/DSC06023.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422943921020281042" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">New Year’s Eve saw me getting up for the first time and enjoying some of Hugo’s home-made empanadas which were fantastic.<font style=""> </font>And champagne, naturally the two go together.<font style=""> </font>And the last few days have seen me walking a bit further each day, up to the hotel restaurant with view of the Beagle Channel and last night walking around the block to a restaurant by the port!</font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgVhC-Wu8a3Q8z2llznxAPiUfjkm3hc7TSjt5xUsH-UZZ_HYhDIqkIqW8_3qVGLSG3v0-utnVRlfc6gUAy5SUwTVOqn9h23FQ-k0QQoS7s8ap5h1rTsThy5qN6a8OGXsJoHyi3wB8cRNc/s1600-h/DSC06128.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgVhC-Wu8a3Q8z2llznxAPiUfjkm3hc7TSjt5xUsH-UZZ_HYhDIqkIqW8_3qVGLSG3v0-utnVRlfc6gUAy5SUwTVOqn9h23FQ-k0QQoS7s8ap5h1rTsThy5qN6a8OGXsJoHyi3wB8cRNc/s320/DSC06128.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422943932083971330" border="0"></a><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">Tuesday I fly home to complete my recuperation.<font style=""> </font>All in all, an extraordinary trip to Antarctica and lots of fantastic memories, even with a busted pelvis, as I hope the blog conveys!<font style=""> </font>Adios from Ushuaia and the fin del mundo!<o:p></o:p></font></p> Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-26548599525486990762010-01-02T08:00:00.000-08:002010-01-02T08:23:24.994-08:00Drake II with a broken pelvis...<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Saturday 12 – Thursday 17 December, Drake & Beagle</span></span></b> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">And so the return.<span style=""> </span>I had really been looking forward to this, hoping for better sailing conditions than on our trip down when for the most part we had been faced with a southerly wind.<span style=""> </span>Unfortunately, the southern oceans were not kind to us as amazingly we had a northerly wind for most of our trip back.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdCx_J9zVyftPvO4zkmW0pXR6hFFYVDdmgfOo-uPz8CoR38ZVwbNO9NiBpsLo_okWE_4jngzkCUUGTxgA57opabNA9Cyx-KkVlKB9qL20oT2u6hj49a1qKzoq9c93GakX9Q-WfMxHczJ6/s1600-h/DSC00626.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdCx_J9zVyftPvO4zkmW0pXR6hFFYVDdmgfOo-uPz8CoR38ZVwbNO9NiBpsLo_okWE_4jngzkCUUGTxgA57opabNA9Cyx-KkVlKB9qL20oT2u6hj49a1qKzoq9c93GakX9Q-WfMxHczJ6/s320/DSC00626.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422176296472292882" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>This meant that for most of the time we were under motor sail.<span style=""> </span>Never particularly a good situation since it makes for a more unstable crossing.<span style=""> </span>And certainly not when you have a broken pelvis!<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Having left Dorian Bay the night before we spent the morning checking out Melchior Island.<span style=""> </span>I am told I didn’t miss a huge amount there as it was very cold and snowing.<span style=""> </span>The brave souls on the ship took a zodiac tour around, but it didn’t seem to be the most comfortable one of the trip.<span style=""> </span>I, however, would have happily traded places!<span style=""> </span>But that was not to be.<span style=""> </span>After Saturday lunch, Europa set a course for the north and our return to Ushuaia.<span style=""> </span>Down in my cabin I was being prepared for the trip.<span style=""> </span>This included being kitted out with a hard drive with the ship’s catalogue of films to entertain me through the hours!<span style=""> </span>I was pleased as punch to get this as I had long exhausted the films I had brought with me.<span style=""> </span>I was also kitted out with a lot of books, the usual paperback thrillers that people bring and then leave on these trips!<span style=""> </span>Nothing better than a page turner to wile the hours away!<span style=""> </span>Perhaps most importantly, we got extra duvets and cushions to pad out the bunk so I couldn’t move so much in the crossing and removed the panels from the bunk above so I didn’t feel like I was in a prison!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwC32iFf15BMOnTEzgMYXFQMeT8ELu7o1CAwmUcJeQIMrPyFyj7_eTYXlZafbVpio3bmZAF_lVIW4PeqJhUiaxLTKZhjSmwRZuE8Lr3MkLv421vFzK0_gHIPDWC6HOt0weCam4XhTBK1ql/s1600-h/DSC00600.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwC32iFf15BMOnTEzgMYXFQMeT8ELu7o1CAwmUcJeQIMrPyFyj7_eTYXlZafbVpio3bmZAF_lVIW4PeqJhUiaxLTKZhjSmwRZuE8Lr3MkLv421vFzK0_gHIPDWC6HOt0weCam4XhTBK1ql/s320/DSC00600.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422176295949971122" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">After the first couple of days the sharp pains subsided and I was left pretty much pain free, with more a sensation of discomfort due to lying in bed generally.<span style=""> </span>My biggest problem turned out to be using the toilet as I had to stay in bed!<span style=""> </span>I’ll spare the details but it wasn’t always fun, especially for those who helped me!<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A special mention to Doc Lia.<span style=""> </span>She was fantastic, diagnosed the injury correctly right at the start and looked after me for the rest of the crossing.<span style=""> </span>She – again correctly – argued against my requests to get up, especially when we were nearly back in Ushuaia and I was keen to get out of bed!<span style=""> </span>Any movements then could have really put me back.<span style=""> </span>She also kept my spirits up and we did laugh a lot!<span style=""> </span>It quickly dawned on me that Ship’s Doc and the cook are probably two of the most important posts on a ship!<span style=""> </span>And especially for the Doc, she had to be on top form even when she felt under the weather – and people did with the seasickness! <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>The rest of the crew were also very helpful, right down from Captain Eric and Marleen (guide) with their “strict” peptalks and tales of past disasters to put my own in perspective to everyone else who came by to chat, check on me, keep my spirits up and generally help pass the time!<span style=""> </span>Particularly, Nick and Daniel, my cabin mates who put up with the disruption and all the visitors and provided friendly encouragement as we crossed the Drake.<span style=""> </span>Special mention too to Marjolein who brought me many of the dinners and helped me through some of the late afternoon blues I suffered!<span style=""> </span>Much appreciated. This is a picture of Captain Eric and soon to be Captain of his slightly larger cruise ship, Nick (cabin mate).<br /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6i3Xa79G4XrqaES8KfSgDRc-pKE5SZb3xl3vqlgx5grYRVNHAcybsluVFXMOVFRHjbgJsGb1k-noL0pmMeHTg4TI3VSKLbDutXNllMmGzb0CslSZPAoA9E8Qceuoe2_9VHOHwoP4_r2c0/s1600-h/DSC05734.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6i3Xa79G4XrqaES8KfSgDRc-pKE5SZb3xl3vqlgx5grYRVNHAcybsluVFXMOVFRHjbgJsGb1k-noL0pmMeHTg4TI3VSKLbDutXNllMmGzb0CslSZPAoA9E8Qceuoe2_9VHOHwoP4_r2c0/s320/DSC05734.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422176311603493890" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The journey was rough, with no sailing the boat lurched in all directions as we struggled northwards into the wind, with all engines at max.<span style=""> </span>At times it felt never ending and I know that for a lot of the crew – permanent and voyage alike – this was a shared feeling.<span style=""> </span>Being at sea when you can’t sail hammers you!<span style=""> </span>A lot of people were sea sick, thankfully not me.<span style=""> </span>I think I would have despaired if I had been seasick!<span style=""> </span>I did feel bad during two days, headaches which stopped me reading and watching films – you can imagine how pissed that made me feel!<span style=""> </span>However, the problem was that I had stopped drinking tea for some reason – after a couple of cups I was back watching Casion Royale!<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwRKvdM0c6W9kXHE8ftMuLksQF0KAZLvYfEnHIFQKtf299WOIgB0CbSjC1sau8hyypd0nGneLJMctUKwwvBy5YjD-wSTk0Btrk8EEi-Mb3G0giIyAb0kgfzwcVNDPC_GY8AFtVyOsGFNg-/s1600-h/DSC09976.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwRKvdM0c6W9kXHE8ftMuLksQF0KAZLvYfEnHIFQKtf299WOIgB0CbSjC1sau8hyypd0nGneLJMctUKwwvBy5YjD-wSTk0Btrk8EEi-Mb3G0giIyAb0kgfzwcVNDPC_GY8AFtVyOsGFNg-/s320/DSC09976.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422176316975326258" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">In the meantime, the crew’s struggles across the Drake were rewarded when Europa sailed close past Cape Horn.<span style=""> </span>I was there I can say!<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPnC9I0ViFt4TrB-mXjXhIAcTwvv6qNIbDL7Ne32uZXJFBW-_IcVChnJGW1ogTKpAf9ESEIBpErmEKV6y5ZObbz-Mz8Ufd0KK0LBlVwYqgUp6vh5XyISR2b6qqxh-ql-3mwnKqIhqlQ5lj/s1600-h/DSC09985.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPnC9I0ViFt4TrB-mXjXhIAcTwvv6qNIbDL7Ne32uZXJFBW-_IcVChnJGW1ogTKpAf9ESEIBpErmEKV6y5ZObbz-Mz8Ufd0KK0LBlVwYqgUp6vh5XyISR2b6qqxh-ql-3mwnKqIhqlQ5lj/s320/DSC09985.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422177343516959106" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The pics here were again taken by Frida – see, I said you would get some credit! </span>:)</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBmtIX67bzv-JpYXSYozFJb5wJDkFgt4RFbJuPAr5406R2C3dEQD1mOkd7C8XFbaOD4iyWCu-t5Xp7cIoh9AA1XFYqH4B2x4Oov4EC5W18Rs7dyQ2pIbDYkmJnCpIaABONh-OS5L_MKZa/s1600-h/DSC05725.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBmtIX67bzv-JpYXSYozFJb5wJDkFgt4RFbJuPAr5406R2C3dEQD1mOkd7C8XFbaOD4iyWCu-t5Xp7cIoh9AA1XFYqH4B2x4Oov4EC5W18Rs7dyQ2pIbDYkmJnCpIaABONh-OS5L_MKZa/s320/DSC05725.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422176301212280386" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">And so, finally on Thursday morning we docked back at Ushuaia to be met by an ambulance and Dr Mario.<span style=""> </span>Emerging squinting into the bright Ushuaia sun, I was lifted out of the boat in a wheelchair and whisked off to hospital with the sound of Europ’s horns blasting the quayside in a pretty cool depature! What would the hospital and x-ray reveal I wondered...</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiupr3BMZ6NrvJXbqKUdtePzFq2urBkIj-lno3_G_kfVRBzMGBv5JhF3OccU-VeChRS9-SvHxHDjlXTxo_cl4TBWwABsXPfzdQ-TAaKwIfDYPSsJtCY_mPywPt2cTjy11m5H1RzjorTZePU/s1600-h/DSC09991.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiupr3BMZ6NrvJXbqKUdtePzFq2urBkIj-lno3_G_kfVRBzMGBv5JhF3OccU-VeChRS9-SvHxHDjlXTxo_cl4TBWwABsXPfzdQ-TAaKwIfDYPSsJtCY_mPywPt2cTjy11m5H1RzjorTZePU/s320/DSC09991.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422177348860987554" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-28380631062551900972010-01-02T06:50:00.000-08:002010-01-02T07:03:06.485-08:00Dorian Bay from a bunk...<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUdz4qAX6pmKfASSShvUMXaT3y_mZ1a__Jpg4_X7m1mhb1iofuzw3eiAoeoBX-OfJ0m5ZQWyOZUUiRdasFSeSSNvp1oyPbDS5sof8aAvOVUj_K8zxmYwlf1B86ojrslmTO-O6eE2cOHzH/s1600-h/DSC00586.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUdz4qAX6pmKfASSShvUMXaT3y_mZ1a__Jpg4_X7m1mhb1iofuzw3eiAoeoBX-OfJ0m5ZQWyOZUUiRdasFSeSSNvp1oyPbDS5sof8aAvOVUj_K8zxmYwlf1B86ojrslmTO-O6eE2cOHzH/s320/DSC00586.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422156611056795122" border="0" /></a><b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Friday 11 December, Dorian Bay</span><o:p></o:p></span></b> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">I had a pretty uncomfortable night following my fall.<span style=""> </span>I found it difficult to turn onto my side and could feel that something was pretty wrong.<span style=""> </span>In the morning, Doc Lia came to check me out.<span style=""> </span>It was hard to perform an exact examination on the boat, in such cramped circumstances and without x-ray facilities.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0g10J77UP1s7-vMMLGKfgANkSkbw8Nq63rzwayos0vI9BYwW3IGo2tRD1bhjVDomtwmxOEyJYKgcuMTzva8NVD23h5gFCOdrecAzhUJy5QIFg5UUgJaXDdL2Jc5zONo0nCD_LH9X7TDs/s1600-h/DSC00576.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0g10J77UP1s7-vMMLGKfgANkSkbw8Nq63rzwayos0vI9BYwW3IGo2tRD1bhjVDomtwmxOEyJYKgcuMTzva8NVD23h5gFCOdrecAzhUJy5QIFg5UUgJaXDdL2Jc5zONo0nCD_LH9X7TDs/s320/DSC00576.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422156605543872562" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">With her help I tried to get out of the bunk, but it was a non-starter.<span style=""> </span>The pain was pretty bad in my leg anytime I tried to move my right leg from side to side.<span style=""> </span>At that stage, the Doc had diagnosed a potential fracture – to be proved correct seven days later in Ushuaia – but she couldn’t be sure.<span style=""> </span>I was confined to the bunk, hoping I might be out of it in a few days if there was no fracture.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDm9SROuwhOrKFEvLrT5nel3F7kjXKB6QBGhnDMJ0-Rxejz8QYe2qJCcDVNTL-gz9qDAFvmoaIFY-xZmymzO2M2QZQL5z_SBdP_rorSQjkkJJdeltjhRF_54mXsabD5Tp7vHDwD9QrNK3b/s1600-h/DSC00566.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDm9SROuwhOrKFEvLrT5nel3F7kjXKB6QBGhnDMJ0-Rxejz8QYe2qJCcDVNTL-gz9qDAFvmoaIFY-xZmymzO2M2QZQL5z_SBdP_rorSQjkkJJdeltjhRF_54mXsabD5Tp7vHDwD9QrNK3b/s320/DSC00566.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422155656627580866" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">And so I missed the last couple of days of our trip around the peninsula.<span style=""> </span>This included Dorian Bay and the Melchior Islands.<span style=""> </span>I guess I was lucky to the extent that I got injured towards the very end of the trip – imagine how frustrated I would have been if it had happened at the start??!<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKBwTrzn2fDOvuVpaTHjvBWyjpjAgttH0soV_iI4y7n0-AaboIHt4n4_NuclwBNdwAVQpAt6O1SqGArflchYc2hhuHvL3xLM6uZ1Euo-hPkBrMU9Mtll9XA1kiIW7F4lzu9vdlMrnQ6pQ/s1600-h/DSC00558.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKBwTrzn2fDOvuVpaTHjvBWyjpjAgttH0soV_iI4y7n0-AaboIHt4n4_NuclwBNdwAVQpAt6O1SqGArflchYc2hhuHvL3xLM6uZ1Euo-hPkBrMU9Mtll9XA1kiIW7F4lzu9vdlMrnQ6pQ/s320/DSC00558.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422155652836309394" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">As it was I stayed put in my bunk, reading and watching some films as crew members came and went to give me news of the landings.<span style=""> </span>Thanks to Frida, I got hold of these photos.<span style=""> </span>The ship does look beautiful from the shore, and I am imagining myself back in my bunk as my fellow passengers checked this out!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMWas-nsGskKuYjkWhuVHAfNvFsiTxMdnC1uMDe91qx7LyGIjIjJKRKk5jUkzen5eErvbAd32n6f7ESbS5Cw7y7D4yaAku53jgyLtrsQZTcJEjF9R7VDud07sXKVmOmOlcAb-d2ZcqCdWY/s1600-h/DSC00545.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMWas-nsGskKuYjkWhuVHAfNvFsiTxMdnC1uMDe91qx7LyGIjIjJKRKk5jUkzen5eErvbAd32n6f7ESbS5Cw7y7D4yaAku53jgyLtrsQZTcJEjF9R7VDud07sXKVmOmOlcAb-d2ZcqCdWY/s320/DSC00545.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422155648102992946" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">By then, all thoughts – not least mine – were turning towards the crossing back on the Drake.<span style=""> </span>How would it play out for me, when would I be able to get up?<span style=""> </span>How would I handle basic toilet stuff?<span style=""> </span>Would I be seasick? Questions which were soon to be answered...</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQ4iBzgB0KVHXcHCwEvM9fLVrAFQOkeb4ji_-oVEvu_n31pHNUyR7Z5fU6GkTuUfzBK_RApOlVybDPxSKklccd_1sXP-oPT8OVKiQ5sfOMwxXCNjeO4xAlepEjdwBSd-4qh23T3P6MQAB/s1600-h/DSC00575.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQ4iBzgB0KVHXcHCwEvM9fLVrAFQOkeb4ji_-oVEvu_n31pHNUyR7Z5fU6GkTuUfzBK_RApOlVybDPxSKklccd_1sXP-oPT8OVKiQ5sfOMwxXCNjeO4xAlepEjdwBSd-4qh23T3P6MQAB/s320/DSC00575.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422156602217097458" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-50277594361741246982010-01-02T06:07:00.000-08:002010-01-02T06:24:43.387-08:00Port Lockroy and a tumble...<b style=""><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB"><font size="5">Thursday 10 December, Port Lockroy</font><o:p></o:p></font></b> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">Yesterday evening we sailed around to Port Lockroy, enjoying a lovely sunset on the way up from Peterman Island and arriving at Port Lockroy at around midnight.<font style=""> </font>We arrived on a special day for the base as it was the first time it was to be “manned” by a female team.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqAzUEa4toK0_HMORAsUpiHlH3PefJFI0Rmnm-DGSOP0cq6ezA1Gh0Xy991EC1z3LygVaU0w6m8XVsTHDOBAqhrSNmNSnI1Y1D9_MgR2Oa90peR1p3WJZ4N-Lu2vUx_rTCMncdTb3qdRl/s1600-h/DSC05644.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqAzUEa4toK0_HMORAsUpiHlH3PefJFI0Rmnm-DGSOP0cq6ezA1Gh0Xy991EC1z3LygVaU0w6m8XVsTHDOBAqhrSNmNSnI1Y1D9_MgR2Oa90peR1p3WJZ4N-Lu2vUx_rTCMncdTb3qdRl/s320/DSC05644.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422145818722617202" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">The base is a British one but was originally discovered by the French explorer Charcot, and named after a French politician Lockroy.<font style=""> </font>The British established a base here in 1944 – Base A – as part of military operations in the Second World War.<font style=""> </font>Following the end of the war, it was converted into a scientific base and was particularly well-known for its research into the ionosphere, especially towards the end of the 1950s.<font style=""> </font><o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">At the end of the 1960s it was closed due to economic reasons and the transfer of scientific work to other British bases in Antarctica.<font style=""> </font>However, that was not to the end of the story as in 1996 it was reopened and now acts primarily as a tourist stop-over with some monitoring of the local penguin population. <font style=""> </font>This monitoring is aimed at ascertaining the impact of tourism: to do this they allow visitors only on one part of the island and thus compare the impact on our favourite friends!<font style=""> </font>Apparently results show a slightly positive impact on the penguins because it deters some of their few predators, notably the skua birds which go after penguin chicks.<o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">The main role of the base, nonetheless, appears to be one of welcoming visitors, providing a postal service and offering a range of merchandise in the well-stocked shop!<font style=""> </font>We landed in the morning, again in a snow-storm, and were greeted by a seal hanging out on the path leading up to the base!<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvNV0yrdokywJ_RQOzlvbClUBBQkGIjvIvXNLdFaOdUUxaztBAIgZtId2uq78Qfc220tAssSQ1GJeXLzFdTYI1YS3CO0SA9LhVZxDuwX0Vt4ZLQxBpOzrVHVAZP9WrdbT6FP_yUGbN2V-D/s1600-h/DSC05629.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvNV0yrdokywJ_RQOzlvbClUBBQkGIjvIvXNLdFaOdUUxaztBAIgZtId2uq78Qfc220tAssSQ1GJeXLzFdTYI1YS3CO0SA9LhVZxDuwX0Vt4ZLQxBpOzrVHVAZP9WrdbT6FP_yUGbN2V-D/s320/DSC05629.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422145803732529938" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">The base crew explained it was the first time the seal had come so far up the path and we had to be careful moving around him.<font style=""> </font>It was something of a surreal experience seeing a seal practically on the base doorstep!<font style=""> </font>Indeed, penguins crowd around the base, outnumbering the human presence massively!<font style=""> </font>Once inside, we bought gifts in the shop and sent postcards!<font style=""> </font>Or in my case, bought stamps in the hope of sending postcards – more on this later!<font style=""> </font>The base also has a small museum detailing the history of the scientific expedition, and including the equipment which was used to measure the ionosphere in the 1950s.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKMiHUJInps5lOV5vIEq7FE4dMZDGgahsgFRtmDDJevFWQPtWSrfx7PFNSYLffOxVUG5JmfccmJXyMyEOiMmQUITsuWs6yvSoiiJhveWio_RiOqQrSFsFXUiNz-vej81TOEgl7_eoGotCe/s1600-h/DSC05632.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKMiHUJInps5lOV5vIEq7FE4dMZDGgahsgFRtmDDJevFWQPtWSrfx7PFNSYLffOxVUG5JmfccmJXyMyEOiMmQUITsuWs6yvSoiiJhveWio_RiOqQrSFsFXUiNz-vej81TOEgl7_eoGotCe/s320/DSC05632.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422145809019108882" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">The four base crew – all women – spend the Southern summer at the base, carrying out the penguin monitoring and looking after the tourists.<font style=""> </font>They were very hospitable and were invited to dinner on the boat – a surprise to come in so many ways!<o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">In the afternoon, we visited a surrounding island and did some hiking so we could have a proper vista of the base.<font style=""> </font>It was an enjoyable afternoon and one which concluded with one of our biggest snowball fights to date.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWDUJO6IIVaojeL__dHxGe8TqahzfF1DNLSda9-0331H-RZaPDD_YdF5tNviNCVybxeVxEQm2LKQ4Im_pipK_ZYDuUR1OvpkjWXkM1m-n4Y7cKkxSi_92njszW0zQPgo6uM_jkzzlSpGeG/s1600-h/P1150728.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWDUJO6IIVaojeL__dHxGe8TqahzfF1DNLSda9-0331H-RZaPDD_YdF5tNviNCVybxeVxEQm2LKQ4Im_pipK_ZYDuUR1OvpkjWXkM1m-n4Y7cKkxSi_92njszW0zQPgo6uM_jkzzlSpGeG/s320/P1150728.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422145821408335746" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">Departing the shore in the final zodiac, we feared that our companions back on Europa would be preparing a revenge and so we prepared dozens of snowballs for a counterattack.<font style=""> </font>But, to our surprise, all was quiet on Europa and instead of revenge preparations, the permanent crew had been setting up a deck BBQ – much to our great surprise!<font style=""> </font>This still didn’t stop us letting fly with a snow blitz!<o:p></o:p></font></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">And so to the deck BBQ and what was to be a major turning point for me in the trip!<font style=""> </font>The setting was fabulous, even towards midnight the sky was bright and the surrounding bay looked beautifully calm as we enjoyed lots of food, wine and dancing.<font style=""> </font><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCT40FBwGkj_ts4bgew0av5waE5pIMb0SJ1YQ91KE9nnwVsUdIc0cwxfFDr1N6j27OlX8TPw3namF-2fJxE1rsfI3hknRzxDdwukSwBj5mrm3CvAujZNLCAFGmuheMcKEAIbwalmMZoarz/s1600-h/DSC00501.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCT40FBwGkj_ts4bgew0av5waE5pIMb0SJ1YQ91KE9nnwVsUdIc0cwxfFDr1N6j27OlX8TPw3namF-2fJxE1rsfI3hknRzxDdwukSwBj5mrm3CvAujZNLCAFGmuheMcKEAIbwalmMZoarz/s320/DSC00501.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422145796610783970" border="0"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font style="" face=""" lang="EN-GB">And here was my downfall, dancing on the deck I took a tumble, falling badly on my backside and hip.<font style=""> </font>Struggling to get up, it was clear that something was not right and quickly Ship’s Doctor Lia was by my side checking me out.<font style=""> </font>Helped by the crew, I gingerly moved into the deck house and then later down to my bunk.<font style=""> </font>Little did I know that I wouldn’t leave it for the next seven days...<o:p></o:p></font></p> Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-68800660725302841252009-12-27T10:25:00.000-08:002009-12-29T13:27:25.408-08:00Booth and Peterman Islands<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Wednesday 9 December, Booth and Peterman Islands</span><o:p></o:p></span></b> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Once again Europa departed as the most part of its crew were out for count below.<span style=""> </span>Emerging some hours later it was something of a surprise to see the changed weather conditions, although the Captain had warned of the approaching low pressure system yesterday evening.<span style=""> </span>Instead of bright blue skies and piercing sunshine, clouds shrouded the peaks and soon a blizzard was blowing across the Europa as it ploughed on, this time, and for the first time, heading northwards and back towards Ushuaia.<span style=""> </span>But before then, many things still to see.<span style=""> </span>The initial programme today was due to see us take in a tour of the Yaluah islands, not landing, but Europa cruising to take in the Adelie penguins.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuA6grlsNZ-PuWPl9F2tAuMFXp4448Rk3NS-9ER_uK7n7BjsnisC9wuB_CqSCVUlNr6RHoQQbw1bUbeyyaI2is2QjVIQ8RGGeKASwrYxDDkU9DoIJNiDJ7zZFni7ePyG5vH7GQtG8AnHgJ/s1600-h/DSC05547.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuA6grlsNZ-PuWPl9F2tAuMFXp4448Rk3NS-9ER_uK7n7BjsnisC9wuB_CqSCVUlNr6RHoQQbw1bUbeyyaI2is2QjVIQ8RGGeKASwrYxDDkU9DoIJNiDJ7zZFni7ePyG5vH7GQtG8AnHgJ/s320/DSC05547.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420702128618161522" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The Adelie are another form of penguins, one which are generally found further southwards.<span style=""> </span>We have just about reached their outer limit.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-Zq9YZsqgemHJchfJgCIgyJ_X2h_fkBIFoqnzxIiraDBo8nDejW0oJS6g4mIbLHcD3-h4940hEQrg5dD8TKnQaRwX_PxhDZALMo8BoofZwIZTEFWKYtSl54Jq043CTnL3BniCn-4hyphenhyphenA1/s1600-h/DSC05587.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-Zq9YZsqgemHJchfJgCIgyJ_X2h_fkBIFoqnzxIiraDBo8nDejW0oJS6g4mIbLHcD3-h4940hEQrg5dD8TKnQaRwX_PxhDZALMo8BoofZwIZTEFWKYtSl54Jq043CTnL3BniCn-4hyphenhyphenA1/s320/DSC05587.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420759823513248274" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The Adelie are distinguished from the Chinstrap by their facial markings – explanatory photos should reveal all:</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWr535PtFJW7wRkcsmE0Og-IJi718BI21C7fBOpNWV0McKjnthKL7MWacR2rouEooiN1PahQmPLxsOVT0vhvGZkr-XeDygatC2DyWV_dhZx_H1DQHF3fLqBo_cv_8z6Qdped3HX7ap9jJ/s1600-h/DSC05553.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWr535PtFJW7wRkcsmE0Og-IJi718BI21C7fBOpNWV0McKjnthKL7MWacR2rouEooiN1PahQmPLxsOVT0vhvGZkr-XeDygatC2DyWV_dhZx_H1DQHF3fLqBo_cv_8z6Qdped3HX7ap9jJ/s320/DSC05553.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420702135169139826" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">However this part of the programme was abandoned due to the inclement weather – no one, not even the hardiest of souls, fancied penguin spotting from a wind and snow swept bow of the Europa!<span style=""> </span>We’re on holiday after all, aren’t we?!<span style=""> </span>But the crew came up with a good alternative.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJPmuGuHaobZJKB0t1WJcKEMmXJI6ZTJ8fHVkeJM_N-MPXKMqsrTc5iOvzi3KXgz2zhWU1MjBamQZsb7O71uzaaXJCFTk7qzdW9SpcR7z5Z3ExqoZ6sIhc-s79GCzDMBBtmXjm8sSNXh6/s1600-h/DSC05533.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJPmuGuHaobZJKB0t1WJcKEMmXJI6ZTJ8fHVkeJM_N-MPXKMqsrTc5iOvzi3KXgz2zhWU1MjBamQZsb7O71uzaaXJCFTk7qzdW9SpcR7z5Z3ExqoZ6sIhc-s79GCzDMBBtmXjm8sSNXh6/s320/DSC05533.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420702124781571458" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We landed at Booth Island, further north and, I think, on the same level as the northern entrance to the Lemaire Channel.<span style=""> </span>We suddenly realised how fortunate we have been with the weather.<span style=""> </span>A blowing gale, horizontal snow in our faces made for a completely different experience from our last few days.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymOYtMORFwKDsRhdxJUAkCmg6w7RxN2klnbrdVk6z3kTwuLAeu1euXaFvaijTrWZEaNrY7m6JIKC4syWFZ-XgWeJdZzY6slbyEC3Ev_N_DJEdvO5zU85CY95mGVi77exMJdEjJSJ4487a/s1600-h/DSC05516.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymOYtMORFwKDsRhdxJUAkCmg6w7RxN2klnbrdVk6z3kTwuLAeu1euXaFvaijTrWZEaNrY7m6JIKC4syWFZ-XgWeJdZzY6slbyEC3Ev_N_DJEdvO5zU85CY95mGVi77exMJdEjJSJ4487a/s320/DSC05516.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420702120806417266" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">But a good change it was too.<span style=""> </span>We could say we had experienced a “realer” Antarctica!<span style=""> </span>We hiked part way across the island to find an old stone structure which was used to house meteorological instruments in the first part of this century.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzZ2ruGENitSVUzja40atUGxpRQx-JK5A6ydCVOIU-pdwBynZRV-IoaWazddFUs_1j8y8wM5wGpkBV2wsKz3OesRMcYjFiP_qNtdrLX_YHlnYGf1xFuToWMn0TJzP811buWcEq8JggJsT/s1600-h/DSC05508.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzZ2ruGENitSVUzja40atUGxpRQx-JK5A6ydCVOIU-pdwBynZRV-IoaWazddFUs_1j8y8wM5wGpkBV2wsKz3OesRMcYjFiP_qNtdrLX_YHlnYGf1xFuToWMn0TJzP811buWcEq8JggJsT/s320/DSC05508.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420702109865428370" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Leaving Booth Island, we backtracked on ourselves slightly to take in Peterman Island.<span style=""> </span>Here we were due to see our first large grouping of adelie penguins, and we were not to be disappointed.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjktHESy0RFlZpovtsUY2Kx2o__VlGY5QNXcDA59BtNDSQjudM75qU5LWiPMa5H_oz2w6N54l2pu2daMO5eSToQdrOromH4o-STV83nl4LvorpvZJ1jgxuB2_mdn7pLIGi2f2_yNmWIcE-/s1600-h/DSC05617.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjktHESy0RFlZpovtsUY2Kx2o__VlGY5QNXcDA59BtNDSQjudM75qU5LWiPMa5H_oz2w6N54l2pu2daMO5eSToQdrOromH4o-STV83nl4LvorpvZJ1jgxuB2_mdn7pLIGi2f2_yNmWIcE-/s320/DSC05617.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420759831496494466" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">But first things first, climbing off the beach we nearly stumbled on a weddel seal, laying out across the beach.<span style=""> </span>It was extraordinary to see this animal so up close, and so at peace.<span style=""> </span>I thought he was sleeping, but it turned out he wasn’t, merely “resting” and probably keeping half an eye open to check on us funny aliens!<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2F240AG2dzFj0G4Uf1iZIywwF05G06-j3xkec_p_M91GrFsQYvZ_7IIvv0oiX8A7qgJQ2P_w_6Ti07P4rIEFHZPdx9gr-LaNyGULVIieQqHuecUDcq7M1OLrtdQa3qk9ZfgtRU6YxVpUE/s1600-h/DSC05575.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2F240AG2dzFj0G4Uf1iZIywwF05G06-j3xkec_p_M91GrFsQYvZ_7IIvv0oiX8A7qgJQ2P_w_6Ti07P4rIEFHZPdx9gr-LaNyGULVIieQqHuecUDcq7M1OLrtdQa3qk9ZfgtRU6YxVpUE/s320/DSC05575.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420759816127973122" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We walked around the island, checking out the various rockeries of adelie, chinstrap and gentoo penguins.<span style=""> </span>I managed to see one pair of gentoos swapping positions on their eggs.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhUkJkT6xr-7u42o6qS933czB4AFEg7TasWDV3vMFSlBDZoe2mpNz7HhOdc7vuhIxr9T7sd7X9sTraCcsYeGgIpiszw7JAZ09jfdcomnwFDgd0JpCGwdT6QlyF2YtxRUgytrsSeA__7lJ/s1600-h/DSC05600.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhUkJkT6xr-7u42o6qS933czB4AFEg7TasWDV3vMFSlBDZoe2mpNz7HhOdc7vuhIxr9T7sd7X9sTraCcsYeGgIpiszw7JAZ09jfdcomnwFDgd0JpCGwdT6QlyF2YtxRUgytrsSeA__7lJ/s320/DSC05600.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420759827630793890" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">It was interesting to watch the ritual they have as they change places.<span style=""> </span>Quite a lot of fussing goes on, and naturally several bouts of the throaty call we have come to recognise over the last few days!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS1qTU5iiAS54vRIcDfXqiOx6_WvKLBlVkxLjAPfTrlPDCAR1b_4LrFu4k5fDIr8fH7vt5TLquACiINzljVaDk3fZo2A074TP0j5-LWmS_VoK6_qBI72HOvTLhRK4WAIS4uHmZjxoeAcJv/s1600-h/DSC05566.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS1qTU5iiAS54vRIcDfXqiOx6_WvKLBlVkxLjAPfTrlPDCAR1b_4LrFu4k5fDIr8fH7vt5TLquACiINzljVaDk3fZo2A074TP0j5-LWmS_VoK6_qBI72HOvTLhRK4WAIS4uHmZjxoeAcJv/s320/DSC05566.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420759810631999922" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Back on the boat we enjoyed a relaxing evening back on ship, for the first time in several days there were no hiking trips planned!<span style=""> </span>Sometimes it is good to be able to relax and catch up on blogging and photo selection, even more so at the moment as we have a photo competition on board!<span style=""> </span>Surely my pic of a penguin crapping must be a candidate for best picture in the wildlife category?! <o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-46649983729898026172009-12-27T10:21:00.003-08:002009-12-29T08:13:42.993-08:00Lemaire to Vernadsky<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Tuesday 8 December, Lemaire Channel to Vernadsky Base<o:p></o:p></span></b> <ul><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 64°53.6 South / 062°54.3 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 64°58.4 South / 063°21.6 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 65°06.8 South / 064°00.7 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Vernadsky Base: 65°14.8 South / 064°16.61 West</span></li></ul><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Europa departed while most of its crew were fast asleep, leaving behind Paradise Harbour and setting course for the Lemaire Channel and our most southerly destination – the Ukrainian research base, Vernadsky.<span style=""> </span><br /></span><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWC6P8eTIWSzLz5xaneG1Qj5gv5pE8ozTY1ShQM2lnodI1zNk-23K5clyMwXYP4iyfyZh0ML71a52Y3hl9EnKvnD_TniBS95p0CQ7blYCkkp0xA_-l8blHHCsXW0coNHvguTJk2UupzkX/s1600-h/DSC05364.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWC6P8eTIWSzLz5xaneG1Qj5gv5pE8ozTY1ShQM2lnodI1zNk-23K5clyMwXYP4iyfyZh0ML71a52Y3hl9EnKvnD_TniBS95p0CQ7blYCkkp0xA_-l8blHHCsXW0coNHvguTJk2UupzkX/s320/DSC05364.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420449158697502658" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The Lemaire Channel is a breathtaking scene, an 11km long channel, surrounded by mountains and glaciers with at times a mere width of a 1km.<span style=""> </span>Continuing our theme of Belgian influence, the Channel was named after a Belgian explorer in the Congo, again by that chap Gerlach.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhorQC73xaVUiJD80RdxxJC2PhXLabROyG4I_Xyu9MQ6V-wI5TqlQAJVtyipEhpU9jhPNXcCOtmY2veiuMws4J9CXT6QfXOV-E_y5KrisoOKfFvJJxEBEj3x4SE9CI-lof5UVruKR3ZwfHY/s1600-h/DSC05321.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhorQC73xaVUiJD80RdxxJC2PhXLabROyG4I_Xyu9MQ6V-wI5TqlQAJVtyipEhpU9jhPNXcCOtmY2veiuMws4J9CXT6QfXOV-E_y5KrisoOKfFvJJxEBEj3x4SE9CI-lof5UVruKR3ZwfHY/s320/DSC05321.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420449133886222754" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The Channel lays along a southwest / northeast axis, linking Flandres Bay and Bismarck Strait to the north with French Passage to the southwest, with the Penola Strait sandwiched in between.<span style=""> </span>Maintaining a British presence, the mountains to the east are suitably named after Shackleton, while the island to the west also sounds vaguely Anglo-Saxon = Booth!<span style=""> </span>The passage through the Lemaire Channel was a sight to behold, the weather stunning with a clear view far down the channel and up to the peaks of the mountains.<span style=""> </span>The Captain said it was only the second time in 10 visits that he had been able to see the peaks.<span style=""> </span>We once again understood how lucky we had been with the weather!<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">And then we caught sight of our two humpback whales.<span style=""> </span>Off to starboard they were elegantly making their meandering way up the Channel past us towards the northern side.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPuEt79ZUXXBkSoBxLgGPFwCjKa2NDobfYoHPEm9yCmkHd_kLEJHFNbU7K7fefYQTFg9yA2iev_mj6s4IZ7-hkCznQIftr3YLNKNaYSAXw8gddi0BoNNVpWJc9ieBXlV0qyWBHDD8jSqR/s1600-h/DSC05357.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPuEt79ZUXXBkSoBxLgGPFwCjKa2NDobfYoHPEm9yCmkHd_kLEJHFNbU7K7fefYQTFg9yA2iev_mj6s4IZ7-hkCznQIftr3YLNKNaYSAXw8gddi0BoNNVpWJc9ieBXlV0qyWBHDD8jSqR/s320/DSC05357.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420449153529359170" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The Europa altered course and soon we were in hot pursuit, a clutch of whale papparizzi looking for the perfect shot.<span style=""> </span>Mine, far from being perfect, caught some of the scene, while the whales seemingly played hide and seek with the boat.<span style=""> </span>But better than taking the photos was to stand still and simply take in the atmosphere of being in the presence of such magnificent animals.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKKbfbMuqmEvKm5t_cFXz-G2O1U9qNivBubIXpJ1yNS-A-sE9Dy0Pvx3snuBxRDDlCU4wkntxeaPrcWAiGB8qbB1Mo2HEsk5Rl343te6omYVs8bNFQHIVjfpyX0lxC5sJoHriTKqEnWWf/s1600-h/DSC05346.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKKbfbMuqmEvKm5t_cFXz-G2O1U9qNivBubIXpJ1yNS-A-sE9Dy0Pvx3snuBxRDDlCU4wkntxeaPrcWAiGB8qbB1Mo2HEsk5Rl343te6omYVs8bNFQHIVjfpyX0lxC5sJoHriTKqEnWWf/s320/DSC05346.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420449139960297746" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Continuing along the Channel, our path slowly broadened out as we entered the Penola Strait.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmREUOWc_759xlupDhuYrAtgBpfFSegXhzpT1Z1Gg013LV_8JovHLN2XnYFaqhiYMHhMXTkJyGeE6ozcBC_OMwa_Pg78krOxN9Z021kdo3x4eAykfw1F7-ICvWxL3pzi4eKZD7FRZ7GNpE/s1600-h/DSC05403.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmREUOWc_759xlupDhuYrAtgBpfFSegXhzpT1Z1Gg013LV_8JovHLN2XnYFaqhiYMHhMXTkJyGeE6ozcBC_OMwa_Pg78krOxN9Z021kdo3x4eAykfw1F7-ICvWxL3pzi4eKZD7FRZ7GNpE/s320/DSC05403.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420659016275623522" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>This stretch of watch was at times still as a lake, the numerous icebergs reflected beautifully in the deep blue waters.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQ9U-vKuJXK52FlFRbxI-PBcYPLqg0fOaySe1K_ZQrrYH2VX-agp2XQwn-xJfVEpbEShQyL5es_nSVk3upMzl_fdPovIVKkAg8p1dztwbVDZnthClweiLSlbgOoq9omGWmReybQ8deEAq/s1600-h/DSC05390.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQ9U-vKuJXK52FlFRbxI-PBcYPLqg0fOaySe1K_ZQrrYH2VX-agp2XQwn-xJfVEpbEShQyL5es_nSVk3upMzl_fdPovIVKkAg8p1dztwbVDZnthClweiLSlbgOoq9omGWmReybQ8deEAq/s320/DSC05390.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420659006479743474" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">From here the horizon opened up southwards, towards our final destination of Vernadsky, while aft we could see the mountains slowly close in around the entrance to the Lemaire Channel.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEmr2HKsOQjyyLawDG8EGPSJH7akWKbKHnsDVDhn72a1UcUkKftdpswhijjdwa-4f9Sc7nPhVKkyxkLhWNRY46Q50c3YvCmByJMy8lkH1PTyJLu9wCq50wGPliyI24AYorw2w23SuPguNY/s1600-h/DSC05389.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEmr2HKsOQjyyLawDG8EGPSJH7akWKbKHnsDVDhn72a1UcUkKftdpswhijjdwa-4f9Sc7nPhVKkyxkLhWNRY46Q50c3YvCmByJMy8lkH1PTyJLu9wCq50wGPliyI24AYorw2w23SuPguNY/s320/DSC05389.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420659004297613522" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">And then Vernadsky.<span style=""> </span>Formerly known as Faraday, or Base F, under British control from the early 1940s until the early 1990s when the Brits sold it for a pound to the Ukrainians.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6FqwBZ_U6wbVHFxoH95nd_OjdtnAZrtEW-Ky_rPMlR9cJ_Gvc_ku3qdyHjc6CXsFaAVlL6FpPEO7Uis6Mwbfh6e2hcT6j6_Iio_bRDQKzhgVpBixMqwSQO0ctfLKw7O4C46orqz3Z4ac/s1600-h/DSC05439.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6FqwBZ_U6wbVHFxoH95nd_OjdtnAZrtEW-Ky_rPMlR9cJ_Gvc_ku3qdyHjc6CXsFaAVlL6FpPEO7Uis6Mwbfh6e2hcT6j6_Iio_bRDQKzhgVpBixMqwSQO0ctfLKw7O4C46orqz3Z4ac/s320/DSC05439.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420690474783424514" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">There was some debate as to the extent of scientific research being carried out in the station.<span style=""> </span>Some speculated that the base was more of a flag carrying exercise than any serious scientific endeavour.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNv5YI0IxWLdjiQFVt09q4NpsAa__Z1NK64KiqZjg2Eo_9fi8Xzzs7eVs6RI_a9Be43v1fSUX8cblomJCFFiQPS7g5n0VoDLbGQSAN9Km8jatQvjZCWqEaXsZRxtx77bWQiWyG-CvPaP_E/s1600-h/DSC05430.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNv5YI0IxWLdjiQFVt09q4NpsAa__Z1NK64KiqZjg2Eo_9fi8Xzzs7eVs6RI_a9Be43v1fSUX8cblomJCFFiQPS7g5n0VoDLbGQSAN9Km8jatQvjZCWqEaXsZRxtx77bWQiWyG-CvPaP_E/s320/DSC05430.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420690461370859570" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>In Dan’s view – and the most authoritative we have – the base ranks well alongside comparable monitoring bases: no groundbreaking research, but solid data collection and monitoring.<span style=""> </span>But certainly they are known for one thing: their bar and homemade vodka!<span style=""> </span>Following a brief tour of the base, we all quickly headed upstairs for a drink – and in some cases (no, not mine) a few!<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_81rnLJK5ZE7eqoK0cK-OcRAV2EZGpDlXHezHCtdXYXGxGd7XYbARbLLcJvVdz1_WWwuxD8uBr2Gl-FIYOCajxwir_StT31FfxWlVU06xxsM-uMMFrgRxUqoIlI9i8yIYqqmb0kOscWC1/s1600-h/DSC05438.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_81rnLJK5ZE7eqoK0cK-OcRAV2EZGpDlXHezHCtdXYXGxGd7XYbARbLLcJvVdz1_WWwuxD8uBr2Gl-FIYOCajxwir_StT31FfxWlVU06xxsM-uMMFrgRxUqoIlI9i8yIYqqmb0kOscWC1/s320/DSC05438.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420690472183727058" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The bar was quite surreal, a mix of its British roots and recent Ukrainian infusion.<span style=""> </span>“Local” Ukrainian music certainly added more flavour and parts of our crew danced with the locals while others downed the rather pleasant vodka.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0MHy4qQ2brkqdnf6XV7Rt_2kw8qGD2xWdr8_Lx81n4iOIhdo4Lakemn4a9QqltiIccG_p5GGah5H1cRMH8RK4j69fpzpkeEO8imp2hMkC9wDtvs1xFnB4e-0LJW5IPrISOIWInJ2jLKNO/s1600-h/DSC05490.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0MHy4qQ2brkqdnf6XV7Rt_2kw8qGD2xWdr8_Lx81n4iOIhdo4Lakemn4a9QqltiIccG_p5GGah5H1cRMH8RK4j69fpzpkeEO8imp2hMkC9wDtvs1xFnB4e-0LJW5IPrISOIWInJ2jLKNO/s320/DSC05490.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420690480845744674" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Back on board it was an occasion to catch up with postcard writing, enjoy the lovely sunny weather on deck – it practically felt like spring!<span style=""> </span>Later after dinner a group of hardy souls headed out on another landing, this time to the original British base.<span style=""> </span>Or I should say hut.<span style=""> </span>It was pretty basic stuff, people lived there for up to 3 years at a stretch.<span style=""> </span>I found it surprising that the Brits were setting the place up in 1943.<span style=""> </span>References were made to reconnaissance work, certainly there must have been a military angle to it all at that stage?<span style=""> </span>Questions, questions...<span style=""> </span>On a lighter note, I maintained – with Nic’s assistance – my record of inscribing Teo and Lilly in all destinations to date – this time with massive boulders in the snow!<span style=""> </span>It was backbreaking stuff I can tell you!!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFLeFVr7o4AEPO2YaP7ircLa7iBAXcvRVMNRfLfy8PJBXP6W6ZZ2nXFzkmbedogER1fZ8ECxYiT2Xq2AbNKEm89bHEpLxqRTQlClK3oirPWzJyn9ps6VL462iKpNndBcERSYZMU0IvAkVV/s1600-h/DSC05491.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFLeFVr7o4AEPO2YaP7ircLa7iBAXcvRVMNRfLfy8PJBXP6W6ZZ2nXFzkmbedogER1fZ8ECxYiT2Xq2AbNKEm89bHEpLxqRTQlClK3oirPWzJyn9ps6VL462iKpNndBcERSYZMU0IvAkVV/s320/DSC05491.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420690487459829762" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-34917612196308438612009-12-27T10:17:00.000-08:002009-12-29T13:50:34.986-08:00Neko & Paradise Harbours<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Monday 7 December, Neko & Paradise Harbours</span></span></b> <ul><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 64°40.9 South / 062°38.0 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 64°49.2 South / 062°37.5 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 64°50.6 South / 062°32.0 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">16h00: 64°53.6 South / 062°52.0 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">24h00: 64°54.5 South / 062°52.8 West</span></li></ul> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_AwQ56mDK4oB1zUI3U4N5IUWOD9knj0Si_W5Qpz6hBDDM4wHLz2LFRJFeyDlNYJvtEVL0o0aMwMqcEsiYTB6tvedTorNkPpaVnBiKW_4GysnfwaMS25DUOBadcKV7dxWJlEcZ1lVae6z/s1600-h/DSC05186.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_AwQ56mDK4oB1zUI3U4N5IUWOD9knj0Si_W5Qpz6hBDDM4wHLz2LFRJFeyDlNYJvtEVL0o0aMwMqcEsiYTB6tvedTorNkPpaVnBiKW_4GysnfwaMS25DUOBadcKV7dxWJlEcZ1lVae6z/s320/DSC05186.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420377257838322722" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Today we arrived at Neko Harbour – our first continental Antarctic landfall!<span style=""> </span>The harbour is named after a whaling ship which used this area as its base.<span style=""> </span>We landed on one shore of the Harbour close to another large penguin colony, mostly chinstrap this time.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQNKbC-4mby4IXo_fE6eNXC3MjZugX5x2Xgxx9SgcVitqB-5oes1IYcssl1ZxjdWLM1SXc2lZiZyrVtHELdAObT3oIGKezr-HUYkFgsnM5MKTaj5NM8eYPx2eXAgFeGk8AEsnxGN0ib79_/s1600-h/DSC05184.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQNKbC-4mby4IXo_fE6eNXC3MjZugX5x2Xgxx9SgcVitqB-5oes1IYcssl1ZxjdWLM1SXc2lZiZyrVtHELdAObT3oIGKezr-HUYkFgsnM5MKTaj5NM8eYPx2eXAgFeGk8AEsnxGN0ib79_/s320/DSC05184.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420377252189813090" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">On the other side of the harbour glaciers swept down the mountains to reach the lake like sea.<span style=""> </span>From time to time, we heard cracking sounds and noticed small parts of ice and snow coming off the glaciers, but no large pieces were to calve off.<span style=""> </span>In any event, we had received the all important instruction to get clear from the beach area as quickly as possible if any were to fall.<span style=""> </span>More hiking was on the agenda as most of the group set out for a nearby hilltop.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0iHR54f86CD74SCwQS2JGNqa73_ZU4a-oWR66uvtje99XvQHQ4Si7Sl-6Pzx7VRwQi-3IXHeS74bx6HYXMgG_qs0Ml1FkZg05E-8wClCvV51g1WcbnPGFpu-uxRB_mMlmqmCVZ_qXPHfp/s1600-h/DSC05163.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0iHR54f86CD74SCwQS2JGNqa73_ZU4a-oWR66uvtje99XvQHQ4Si7Sl-6Pzx7VRwQi-3IXHeS74bx6HYXMgG_qs0Ml1FkZg05E-8wClCvV51g1WcbnPGFpu-uxRB_mMlmqmCVZ_qXPHfp/s320/DSC05163.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420377237818722722" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">After enjoying the magnificent views at the top and the obligatory snowball fight, we sledged down to the bottom.<span style=""> </span>Many of us, myself included, had brought plastic bags to aid the process.<span style=""> </span>I lost mine however with seconds of starting down the slope: going headfirst it was probably best I had lost this extra speed aid as the slope was very steep – and a bit hair-raising!<span style=""> </span>Fortunately I came through unscathed, but some others suffered scratches and bruises.<span style=""> </span>I decided, given my injury record, not to risk another run!<span style=""> </span>And the plastic bag was recovered...!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8qXo1P3w0utMdiiTWHcmrG8A2BhAy-unRkS0CHC4W_ISkTkhdHsGabP2Ss-r-694VKOUjWf47jaAEuxAcnR82G-_RZKEPQgTj45WnOcjtvlHX4ZHnkm0ozYcbWKUizj6cK7_gKyqvig-0/s1600-h/DSC05179.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8qXo1P3w0utMdiiTWHcmrG8A2BhAy-unRkS0CHC4W_ISkTkhdHsGabP2Ss-r-694VKOUjWf47jaAEuxAcnR82G-_RZKEPQgTj45WnOcjtvlHX4ZHnkm0ozYcbWKUizj6cK7_gKyqvig-0/s320/DSC05179.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420377247147879074" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Over lunch we moved around to another area, the Argentine base of Admiral Brown.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOV8dZNCG9ACYwmGXRt-b4mUcB9oSskRfyEClWe3J0EpssA4q6YZAJcTNu8XAG9dDaKeCoVjgwRtK0g3pYh6gtl0n4p1NxGmvtfRY8mnwonkH7UY96OI4g9JX-Uu2oh8zrMH39-lSTDGU9/s1600-h/DSC05202.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOV8dZNCG9ACYwmGXRt-b4mUcB9oSskRfyEClWe3J0EpssA4q6YZAJcTNu8XAG9dDaKeCoVjgwRtK0g3pYh6gtl0n4p1NxGmvtfRY8mnwonkH7UY96OI4g9JX-Uu2oh8zrMH39-lSTDGU9/s320/DSC05202.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420427389782021938" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">This brought more of the same, extended long snowball fights, hiking to the top of the local summit and many attempts at sledging down.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0kdxS4aRuLPxNiese_i4eXd73OaKDvGXqQ7b41B_IMTTWgpf2IJdsytqFj4cZd6jAlLjc_-cZDTlNIyKk1DApVPZ9v90aO5TyNYCGtQhy5J-d4s0YZ4TcHApRr08VZJBNB3q1xdaV4KS/s1600-h/DSC05197.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0kdxS4aRuLPxNiese_i4eXd73OaKDvGXqQ7b41B_IMTTWgpf2IJdsytqFj4cZd6jAlLjc_-cZDTlNIyKk1DApVPZ9v90aO5TyNYCGtQhy5J-d4s0YZ4TcHApRr08VZJBNB3q1xdaV4KS/s320/DSC05197.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420427387351505954" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Some of the permanent crew seemingly risked life and limb going down the steep slope backwards.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFB3I4ePSfdpJfQZ5D1nWo2ksidtjQieElHTvW96PxSSxwGWfGocPWAQDUArHl-EuTw3Xmr9oaZO2WxtiUqyUyIDvdnpfI2U5JewW1yZU85Kchyphenhyphen3CViskgupwpp-j21_gyZNaVsdBdJbZK/s1600-h/DSC05205.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFB3I4ePSfdpJfQZ5D1nWo2ksidtjQieElHTvW96PxSSxwGWfGocPWAQDUArHl-EuTw3Xmr9oaZO2WxtiUqyUyIDvdnpfI2U5JewW1yZU85Kchyphenhyphen3CViskgupwpp-j21_gyZNaVsdBdJbZK/s320/DSC05205.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420427401485294978" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">It took the group I was with us some considerable time to make the summit as I had to rescue Joan from a hole in the snow! Having managed to get stuck practically all the way up her leg I spent several minutes digging and kicking her out!<span style=""> </span>Surely she didn’t really need the leg?!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimz0qPCzo8pHcndLo0l3oqLztiPZBhpSjl0d7P0qOLvqk-JdXPeFYHntILvpqNr15y8fXeX4r8aD32k-sumIPcfMB1MZ_mJOVF5tk_mOlSaTtbPYvBchwc-97Bjn-_WBliosZB5PDDGfMY/s1600-h/DSC05261.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimz0qPCzo8pHcndLo0l3oqLztiPZBhpSjl0d7P0qOLvqk-JdXPeFYHntILvpqNr15y8fXeX4r8aD32k-sumIPcfMB1MZ_mJOVF5tk_mOlSaTtbPYvBchwc-97Bjn-_WBliosZB5PDDGfMY/s320/DSC05261.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420440819504215426" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gA22pXLSunLax1gakQ5gIwEBxZmu4SgXfo1XLG2PQiqXsNF9n_Yr6Ffm1Pas_cmPLmXCQu9y_skfgRDSlhxBlVlFSHCcJcLvNZxkM4oV0gDA-0EZ7ovX2ZPc99mNsvtJLQ8dARbezPWI/s1600-h/DSC05246.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gA22pXLSunLax1gakQ5gIwEBxZmu4SgXfo1XLG2PQiqXsNF9n_Yr6Ffm1Pas_cmPLmXCQu9y_skfgRDSlhxBlVlFSHCcJcLvNZxkM4oV0gDA-0EZ7ovX2ZPc99mNsvtJLQ8dARbezPWI/s320/DSC05246.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420440809548866178" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">In the evening we moved around to the appropriately named Paradise Harbour.<span style=""> </span>A wonderfully calm bay, surrounded by the most majestic mountains and sweeping glaciers.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw2TsWMkBYAYCtbwHghvS6BRhk2uNNqWliATiV9SY4ocmhpIAwngvAswXUfOmb7ipwXjT9o93U67pM-e0OVEFI__77NGipLFvnALWv_oFNmgRk4xZBD-rQQNFHNoF3Rm45mKaNw0p2WJkm/s1600-h/DSC05282.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw2TsWMkBYAYCtbwHghvS6BRhk2uNNqWliATiV9SY4ocmhpIAwngvAswXUfOmb7ipwXjT9o93U67pM-e0OVEFI__77NGipLFvnALWv_oFNmgRk4xZBD-rQQNFHNoF3Rm45mKaNw0p2WJkm/s320/DSC05282.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420440830302846386" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We spent an hour or so on the zodiacs cruising around and taking it all in.<span style=""> </span>It was a lovely sight, watching as the sun slowly set behind the mountains – and this was at around 22h00!<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuPHqMSd9lSMKF2TRXhiHreKEP9tvqjWK2W6cG7M-7ITB9db3o9fqdxippjr7t_D5XhwqRdaLAdFluF0H1jaQFj3ALxQIN8KXJtcFSbGouyGNKAAVnulJFuQDvnNUloykiniSgqcHsAjs5/s1600-h/DSC05272.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuPHqMSd9lSMKF2TRXhiHreKEP9tvqjWK2W6cG7M-7ITB9db3o9fqdxippjr7t_D5XhwqRdaLAdFluF0H1jaQFj3ALxQIN8KXJtcFSbGouyGNKAAVnulJFuQDvnNUloykiniSgqcHsAjs5/s320/DSC05272.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420440826709600130" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Finishing off another good day, we retired to the bar for a glass of wine.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExfa_3_QYFJUBRC6ORAPiTcX4BxppMg9eZlODBj-u3mCjwyWq9kEQV4yId1rTbkdvOJh7Zo842UHDd-3mvzJod_f93npVVLdNLwrcbD_OjJbHH1PxI6vOTZ2pbiAHWX-2RiBr1gFq7rds/s1600-h/DSC05264.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExfa_3_QYFJUBRC6ORAPiTcX4BxppMg9eZlODBj-u3mCjwyWq9kEQV4yId1rTbkdvOJh7Zo842UHDd-3mvzJod_f93npVVLdNLwrcbD_OjJbHH1PxI6vOTZ2pbiAHWX-2RiBr1gFq7rds/s320/DSC05264.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420440823947212258" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-49994804744325045092009-12-27T10:14:00.000-08:002009-12-28T11:32:08.508-08:00Enterprise & Cuverville Islands<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Sunday 6 December, Enterprise Island, Gouvernoren Harbour, Cuverville Island</span><o:p></o:p></span></b> <ul><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 64°04.8 South / 061°11.5 West (Graham Passage 7am-8am)<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 64°32.4 South / 061°59.5 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">16h00: 64°37.1 South / 062°15.3 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">18h54: Cuverville: 64°40.9 South / 062°38.17 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">24h00: 64°40.8 South / 062°38.0 West</span></li></ul><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">After a calm run across during the evening we arrived this morning at the Graham Passage, an impressive narrow passage taking us towards Enterprise Island and Gouvernoren Harbour.<span style=""> </span>As ever, I managed to get up just that bit too late to see the entrance into the Passage – it is reputed to be hard to identify until a ship is up close!<span style=""> </span>Reassuringly we had found it by the time I scrambled out of my bunk and hit the deck.<span style=""> </span>The cliffs and glaciers framed our passage, while we navigated around icebergs becalmed on the still Sunday morning water.<span style=""> </span><br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdK21joJ3aRtdiaYA3IBEWx2Q1UDmGPzrl-54lhGw6A_kWf8-UhHGesUOcjy8vypCOzn8EJlLmlg2uuGixKTfX5bUG-6hIzxENMqkEStCL5fZrPKrqJYqep3o_sWPMNHBTf1RwebTA-qj/s1600-h/DSC05057.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdK21joJ3aRtdiaYA3IBEWx2Q1UDmGPzrl-54lhGw6A_kWf8-UhHGesUOcjy8vypCOzn8EJlLmlg2uuGixKTfX5bUG-6hIzxENMqkEStCL5fZrPKrqJYqep3o_sWPMNHBTf1RwebTA-qj/s320/DSC05057.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420334298237508754" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Above, a grey bank of clouds provided the perfect backdrop over the hills, adding that contrast to the snow and water which I have come to recognise over the last few days.<span style=""> </span>The passage is part of the larger Gerlach Strait (a Belgian explorer, quite a famous one too – certainly his strait looks long on the chart!).<o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Around 10h00 we entered the harbour around Enterprise Island.<span style=""> </span>This was used by whalers at the start of the twentieth century as a perfect place to undertake their trade, protected as they are from the wilds of the southern oceans by the surrounding mountains.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj89sQKTVazs-Z4w3CIXw0W6pmrdqG2u9gEAo3yRVgslUAYAkLtVo_iGGgYODMJVeQDwR865W8OaiH7s3PqEIlTJ33RbvomgWLpjvjnnmrvBgC3p65V2bMPc3Xb8hbneVm8drmL8aIvXSYa/s1600-h/DSC05075.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj89sQKTVazs-Z4w3CIXw0W6pmrdqG2u9gEAo3yRVgslUAYAkLtVo_iGGgYODMJVeQDwR865W8OaiH7s3PqEIlTJ33RbvomgWLpjvjnnmrvBgC3p65V2bMPc3Xb8hbneVm8drmL8aIvXSYa/s320/DSC05075.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420334314951831474" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">At one end of the harbour lies the wreck of the Gouvernoren, a Norwegian factory whaling ship.<span style=""> </span>The ship also gives its name to the harbour. <span style=""> </span>Ships such as these were moored close to the shoreline and were equipped with boiler equipment to process the whales which were brought ashore from the whaling ships.<span style=""> </span>This particular ship met a grisly end, fire sweeping through the boat in 1915 and leaving it as a wreck, silhouetted against the pristine white glaciers and, in parts, exposed grey cliff.<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We took the zodiacs to have a closer look.<span style=""> </span>It is remarkably well preserved.<span style=""> </span>It was originally called Europe – not a sign of things to come we all hoped – and its namesake slowly inched in until she was lying flush with the stricken vessel.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMnXLlSWkA-lr-zjPJdnvak_8HLkIwMiZgFVV8vPwLA7Wj6_TS54ibKPNT0tKYWwc-cSeDDfROv3eEdEezcRCgjIXKiNd_Lw1gnsF51Y7ehLuDmxP1Zfu4uv49OFHMaEOIdyFO3E53UCp0/s1600-h/DSC05069.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMnXLlSWkA-lr-zjPJdnvak_8HLkIwMiZgFVV8vPwLA7Wj6_TS54ibKPNT0tKYWwc-cSeDDfROv3eEdEezcRCgjIXKiNd_Lw1gnsF51Y7ehLuDmxP1Zfu4uv49OFHMaEOIdyFO3E53UCp0/s320/DSC05069.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420334306808889938" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">For once, being on a zodiac felt like the safest place to be!<span style=""> </span>The practice of keeping factory whale ships close to the shore was eventually superseded by the larger whaling ships which could hunt and process the oil on board and at sea.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6k3uyKbr6aWfnVai2OlT5VxImBjW-g9c7n_g1XBLo4x5CBBh-EP1rHHFC-100ULJ-ojulsiRSllldB0OGBl40T5CE18XM03pFfBHwU7IXjthySsENBoygGtZwrLQRLDbU5sdnRZ-B5_o0/s1600-h/DSC05067.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6k3uyKbr6aWfnVai2OlT5VxImBjW-g9c7n_g1XBLo4x5CBBh-EP1rHHFC-100ULJ-ojulsiRSllldB0OGBl40T5CE18XM03pFfBHwU7IXjthySsENBoygGtZwrLQRLDbU5sdnRZ-B5_o0/s320/DSC05067.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420334303900205346" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We got some great photos of the wreck and the Europa next to her erstwhile namesake, before taking in other parts of the harbour.<span style=""> </span>We came upon a couple of crab eater seals.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmtKltB8-QcDh5aNMlHvIRaLttwde1oHxODhXjQ30pMO-jN0vHP0Ud4a59YNxzmpB3yKFcwv_1qYTc9N9l6l8b5FZzVKbDeNQkhsEoB5RGQ-zRXwJWHgCqpVCslYieKNHlkGvKEB52K4m4/s1600-h/DSC05090.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmtKltB8-QcDh5aNMlHvIRaLttwde1oHxODhXjQ30pMO-jN0vHP0Ud4a59YNxzmpB3yKFcwv_1qYTc9N9l6l8b5FZzVKbDeNQkhsEoB5RGQ-zRXwJWHgCqpVCslYieKNHlkGvKEB52K4m4/s320/DSC05090.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420334318248840450" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Dan explained that the name is somewhat misleading.<span style=""> </span>Originally named by the Norwegians the word “crabben” refers to the krill which provide the basis of the food chain here.<span style=""> </span>In a similar way to whales, crab eating seals filter sea water for the krill – their teeth specially designed to allow them to do this.<span style=""> </span>So no crab eating going on!<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Another ice anecdote too.<span style=""> </span>Often little pieces of ice on the water take on the appearance of elegant swans.<span style=""> </span>So much so that early explorers gave them names: in the case of the Antarctica, the Bellinghausen Swan (he was a Russian explorer) and in the case of the Arctic, the Barents Swan (after the famous Dutch explorer).<span style=""> </span>Now apparently much fun can be had at the expense of avid birdwatcher ... “have you seen the Bellinghausen Swan on your trip, Sir”, “Say again? Which page??”<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Our afternoon was spent slowly meandering through the channels and islands towards our final stop of the day – Cuverville.<span style=""> </span>Sometimes one needs a break on board, and I took some time down in my cabin, ostensibly to finish Shackleton’s autobiography, but also, it turned out, to catch up on some well-deserved shut eye.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-sq8HHWsqVJp-Qng6-vVBOd-sX4UkUbo0ZmsouOLfT2g9XGe-b37OXg7QMcqoPhmqly7_qUY6ese-PPjk-ZZUXf7KBmHP9q_4G0H2G0_D-ROumPaPCCTXb4ejSbBanjw_pOQBmwCjEXDl/s1600-h/DSC05129.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-sq8HHWsqVJp-Qng6-vVBOd-sX4UkUbo0ZmsouOLfT2g9XGe-b37OXg7QMcqoPhmqly7_qUY6ese-PPjk-ZZUXf7KBmHP9q_4G0H2G0_D-ROumPaPCCTXb4ejSbBanjw_pOQBmwCjEXDl/s320/DSC05129.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420340097058175410" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Around dinner time we arrived at the Cuverville, the site of one of the largest gentoo penguin colonies in Antarctica.<span style=""> </span>Apparently there are around 5000 mating pairs.<span style=""> </span>You can imagine the sweet scent which accompanies such a large congregation of penguins.<span style=""> </span>Certainly an aroma which came our way as we motored across the bay in the zodiacs after another dinner (this time lamb, lekke moi – as the Dutchies say!).<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We had to take care on the island not to step on the so-called penguin superhighways – these are the well-trodden paths penguins use to travel from the colonies to the sea for fishing.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULT05gTpBaAjBOtt5bSspq8oEDgldrDprLha4UUfHZRhMVexZfWXGwZSTdj3o0BA3_aISjcAi_UhHF6MoM-mNDGTF0DH4I1CA9ee5EzcRhqhnL2PlVzVjr3fpSgBlwzs3Ie3Y7SdRpWlQ/s1600-h/DSC05152.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULT05gTpBaAjBOtt5bSspq8oEDgldrDprLha4UUfHZRhMVexZfWXGwZSTdj3o0BA3_aISjcAi_UhHF6MoM-mNDGTF0DH4I1CA9ee5EzcRhqhnL2PlVzVjr3fpSgBlwzs3Ie3Y7SdRpWlQ/s320/DSC05152.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420340108708064018" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A deep human footprint in the superhighways can cause the penguins all kinds of problems if they fall in them.<span style=""> </span>And then we were ready to climb the hill.<span style=""> </span>Cristina, one of our guides, reckoned it was 300 meters.<span style=""> </span>I’m pretty sure that was an underestimate.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_yEV7d_1nbpbqnbk28nljN-uMYtpMGz5tPU613GqaTG6EA_s2zL_W2InAgXPxRPXd2h8wMDEQt37-Ib5I3rUVIK2TGmXoCGYbiGi85OluyMkRGni0oJCwiSp02fGv88oxq8safe2kqUF/s1600-h/DSC05133.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_yEV7d_1nbpbqnbk28nljN-uMYtpMGz5tPU613GqaTG6EA_s2zL_W2InAgXPxRPXd2h8wMDEQt37-Ib5I3rUVIK2TGmXoCGYbiGi85OluyMkRGni0oJCwiSp02fGv88oxq8safe2kqUF/s320/DSC05133.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420340098978978178" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">It certainly felt more, hiking through snow which could easily reach one’s knees at times and carrying the extra weight of many clothes layers and heavy boots.<span style=""> </span>Cue memo to myself to get back on the fitness regime back home!<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuReaI8GkprzvT2JfLBK_VaaiTRRJs9yQbwN6xmYsLM6ECtjaxrsrBp63v-5pvCMy7kgAxE68m1MwPfKydZN8kC6hLgeZJzrkv1TlbTM0ltlLz3WUO2u-By4MhuqRUVn2ktod4jGMEZ2uz/s1600-h/DSC05123.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuReaI8GkprzvT2JfLBK_VaaiTRRJs9yQbwN6xmYsLM6ECtjaxrsrBp63v-5pvCMy7kgAxE68m1MwPfKydZN8kC6hLgeZJzrkv1TlbTM0ltlLz3WUO2u-By4MhuqRUVn2ktod4jGMEZ2uz/s320/DSC05123.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420340089984980850" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Anyway, the walk up the hill was well worth it as the views were simply stunning.<span style=""> </span>We had a glorious panorama from the top, looking out at the channels surrounding this small island, and upwards towards the peaks framing them on the other side.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBcszrc_wSR4WRwWfX4RwErsjWhZFLo_xlD3dUbpeVEzmky1EeNfAw6jjjMMeUSemGtkQXZGDqPLDDLU2Koe9S2jQRE_c91LRByRBFToHXOFRScnI6488ed8mtZFXsK9ugZfHWhT09EGPe/s1600-h/DSC05117.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBcszrc_wSR4WRwWfX4RwErsjWhZFLo_xlD3dUbpeVEzmky1EeNfAw6jjjMMeUSemGtkQXZGDqPLDDLU2Koe9S2jQRE_c91LRByRBFToHXOFRScnI6488ed8mtZFXsK9ugZfHWhT09EGPe/s320/DSC05117.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420340077683061138" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Naturally, we all reverted to our youth and enjoyed many snow ball fights on the way up and way down! Of course, the way down was also great fun as we were able to sledge down some of the steeper slopes, and I found running through the thick snow surprisingly easy on the steeper sections.<span style=""> </span>Very enjoyable and no broken bits to report!<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Oh, and I nearly forgot.<span style=""> </span>Half way up the slope we stopped to enjoy the sight of another penguin colony and were treated, if that’s the right word, to two penguins getting down to mating business!<span style=""> </span>I didn’t actually see them, but certainly heard a kind of call I hadn’t come across before!<span style=""> </span>Great evening, and for the penguins too...<o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-55135609092906507222009-12-27T10:12:00.000-08:002009-12-28T08:43:38.330-08:00Trinity Island<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Saturday 5 December, Trinity Island</span><o:p></o:p></span></b> <ul><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 63°15.8 South / 060°40.1 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 63°36.3 South / 060°58.1 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Anchor: 12h00: 63°51.4 South / 060°54.1 West</span></li></ul><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A break in our run of island landings as today was spent entirely at sea, either on board Europa on in the zodiacs iceberg spotting!<span style=""> </span>But first things first.<span style=""> </span>After escaping the ice at Deception we set a south westerly course in the direction of Trinity Island, crossing the Bransfield Straits.<span style=""> </span>This was one of the last rougher crossings before our return trip across the Drake Passage.<span style=""> </span>Fortunately, the crossing was overnight so anyone prone to seasickness could hopefully wile away the hours sleeping in their bunk – as long as they weren’t tipped out of it!</span> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLpSe-s64KNSG4rBBtXW3e85UOFdgeHRYBKKjv7TyFE-QXF_mbY7x_HWEXhg5LX2tb4TZruqMNYQgoMWZ-UqcTd3nWFzi1FJiVdAzUgxO-4FU9KKojCWH_CsmjBfWN8NJ6IC9AzlUf6bjH/s1600-h/DSC05005.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLpSe-s64KNSG4rBBtXW3e85UOFdgeHRYBKKjv7TyFE-QXF_mbY7x_HWEXhg5LX2tb4TZruqMNYQgoMWZ-UqcTd3nWFzi1FJiVdAzUgxO-4FU9KKojCWH_CsmjBfWN8NJ6IC9AzlUf6bjH/s320/DSC05005.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420327294389621218" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We spent a pleasant morning cruising towards Trinity Island, enjoying the landscape as it slowly slipped by and marvelling at icebergs of all types and sizes.<span style=""> </span>In preparation for our iceberg spotting, Dan gave us a presentation on how glaciers are formed, the different type of icebergs as well as the formation of sea ice.<span style=""> </span>I was interested in his views on the impact of climate change on this region.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy4HudSrZGLTnS5i3zv_A6cbA2K-di-q2kPdjM2aswQarU7Y6JoymMIq6YrSKJIw3IIDfP4DTm-fjEfkE1dygb9wq8igbvitsqQh8x_HcCzFIGzvW_T6214ELZ-m4dL93SzfKNqYXqjHAw/s1600-h/DSC05034.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy4HudSrZGLTnS5i3zv_A6cbA2K-di-q2kPdjM2aswQarU7Y6JoymMIq6YrSKJIw3IIDfP4DTm-fjEfkE1dygb9wq8igbvitsqQh8x_HcCzFIGzvW_T6214ELZ-m4dL93SzfKNqYXqjHAw/s320/DSC05034.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420327300793972802" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">In his view, and in contrast to the Arctic, it is impossible to draw conclusions on any impact climate change may be having on the Antarctic ice cap and the annual growth and subsequent retreat of the ice sheets. We watched a series of slides showing the retreat and growth of the ice sheet from February this year through to mid November.<span style=""> </span>By mid and late winter the ice has extended far out in the ocean on two sides of the continent, and just past where we are visiting now on the far tip of the Peninsula.<span style=""> </span>In the depths of winter the extension of ice doubles the size of the continent.<span style=""> </span>Incredible.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXQyRnbSkiEBR71ulJcQjjmFUhVCuFVh7z_M6ttmMmeccLMPj1g6r9m9tmh0D7c9ovqpL6ijOiOmzJPq4ESIxv8z2yBH3IdZZ8Mi_9qxjVelzFzxqH4rDjdM-py71WnZpb1-5LrthYa-N/s1600-h/DSC05006.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXQyRnbSkiEBR71ulJcQjjmFUhVCuFVh7z_M6ttmMmeccLMPj1g6r9m9tmh0D7c9ovqpL6ijOiOmzJPq4ESIxv8z2yBH3IdZZ8Mi_9qxjVelzFzxqH4rDjdM-py71WnZpb1-5LrthYa-N/s320/DSC05006.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420327296313581986" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Following another hearty lunch on deck – although no hotdogs this time – we prepared ourselves for our iceberg spotting.<span style=""> </span>We took the zodiacs out for a 90 minute cruise around “iceberg alley” (the crew called it iceberg graveyard but I preferred alley...), a small channel between Trinity and Spit Islands.<span style=""> </span>The prevailing winds blow icebergs into this small channel from where there is no escape and they remained trapped, caught in the shallows, held firm like ghostly shipwrecks silhouetted against the dark and imposing cliffs.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhis_dAKg6_5IIgdm-Nz5Dirtjj0r7-epyb4mCcEXFZvQJ170SNzyeiRH9eyX_Yd2u1fwh5kpCcTzNehEnIFSALtKaxc_0kWJNeQfr3gW0nEWZESQhDEP_5lFtoGdii8IvgP4jjhiOailqn/s1600-h/DSC05043.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhis_dAKg6_5IIgdm-Nz5Dirtjj0r7-epyb4mCcEXFZvQJ170SNzyeiRH9eyX_Yd2u1fwh5kpCcTzNehEnIFSALtKaxc_0kWJNeQfr3gW0nEWZESQhDEP_5lFtoGdii8IvgP4jjhiOailqn/s320/DSC05043.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420327305825635778" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Exploring the channel everywhere we looked seemed to offer up a new vista, a new ice shape, a different colour tone of the ice, some amazing dark blues buried deep in cracks in iceberg.<span style=""> </span>And there was also some wildlife in this desolate landscape.<span style=""> </span>Seals had pulled themselves up on some of the marooned bergs.<span style=""> </span>Including some leopard seals, the first time we had seen these awesome and feared creatures up close.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyIHyQN0TzYUFXXu6CwGLkSlGognwPlzFPuhyLs2x9abGEn-0AX2yERZMwRZJkuBUReVNOBEheUg4DAgPYHoXcVB-h1h2xGwQbAG1QqpQ2kuykXQR1FPXiakB9TsewOUC8xZAwCaHijbCx/s1600-h/DSC04999.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyIHyQN0TzYUFXXu6CwGLkSlGognwPlzFPuhyLs2x9abGEn-0AX2yERZMwRZJkuBUReVNOBEheUg4DAgPYHoXcVB-h1h2xGwQbAG1QqpQ2kuykXQR1FPXiakB9TsewOUC8xZAwCaHijbCx/s320/DSC04999.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420327285582951314" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">With an angular neck and rows of sharp, incisor teeth glinting in the watery sun, they certainly lived up to the impression I had formed of them.<span style=""> </span>Watch out little penguins!<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Back on board, it was time to celebrate Sinterklaas day – Dutch Christmas, celebrated in the evening of December 5.<span style=""> </span>As part of our celebrations, we all did secret santa gifts for our crew mates.<span style=""> </span>I drew Karen out of the hat and went on the practical side with my gift, including a pair of my hand heat patches since she had earlier told me how cold she had been feeling.<span style=""> </span>Time will tell if this will encourage her to participate in more landings.<span style=""> </span>In return, I got a “Dutch for Dummies” guide.<span style=""> </span>My Dutch, already at a high level of competence, has been refined on this trip.<span style=""> </span>New words such as “lekke” have been added to my burgeoning repertoire.<span style=""> </span>In fact, Dutch seems to revolve around this all-purpose word, generally taken to mean “nice/good”.<span style=""> </span>Lekke moi indeed.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <span style="line-height: 115%;font-family:";font-size:11pt;" lang="EN-GB" ><span style="font-size:100%;">Continuing our festive theme, we were also visted by Sinterklaas and Black Peter, arriving on a detour from Spain on their way to the Low Countries.</span><span style=";font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="font-size:100%;">One of our crew, Lisa from Australia, was honoured as the best behaved of our group, while Sanne from the Low Countries, for misdeamours undetermined, was given the sack literally – trussed up in a bag for transport...but not to Spain, rather back to the deck house bar where we promptly retired for dinner.</span><span style=";font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="font-size:100%;">Late evening entertainment saw a group of us take in the Shackleton movie.</span><span style=";font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="font-size:100%;">I must admit I didn’t think it was that good since it had, understandably, to condense a lot of the story into film size proportions.</span><span style=";font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="font-size:100%;">However, a short scene of 3 minutes does not really convey the magnitude of, say, the crossing from Elephant Island to South Georgia in a small adapted life raft.</span><span style=";font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="font-size:100%;">Epic doesn’t come close to describing that feat.</span><span style=";font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="font-size:100%;">Neither should it be used in connection with the film.</span> <span style=""> </span><span style="font-size:100%;">As ever, the book is clearly superior to the film.</span></span>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-74186196703013006732009-12-27T07:10:00.000-08:002009-12-28T07:57:14.907-08:00Deception Island<b style=""><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Friday 4 December, Deception Island</span><o:p></o:p></span></b> <ul><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 62°48.4 South / 060°08.7 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 62°57.3 South / 060°37.8 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">First anchor: 62°53.6 South / 060°40.6 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Telefon Bay: 12h00: 62°57.9 South / 060°37.8 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">24h00: 63°01.9 South / 060°31.2 West<o:p></o:p></span></li></ul> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">23h00: The best day of the trip so far for me.<span style=""> </span>Overnight we departed our anchorage at Half Moon Bay to head south west along the coast of Livingstone Island towards Deception Island.<span style=""> </span>Calling Deception an Island is, well, a deception: it is in fact a volcano crater, with a sheltered bay in the middle.<span style=""> </span>I was hoping it would prove to be deception in the English sense and not a French “deception” – more of a disappointment.<span style=""> </span>Any worries one might have had on that point were quickly laid to rest as we arrived at the island: the entrance, Neptunes Bellows is narrow, with shallow rocks in the middle making a ship’s passage just that more difficult.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQCa44DUp1-WP8IamuUXCaG5WM2_7rwtkNXNtvMz7VieY8bNnmWeFAvTHxUn61cTNPq4Ec4AaAWz7d9nl7djyjQC1EG32vo9PXNycLsLjg0cLRn9vh27M4f6fzMKziRWqXRbJR3vN8AnW/s1600-h/IMG_2483.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQCa44DUp1-WP8IamuUXCaG5WM2_7rwtkNXNtvMz7VieY8bNnmWeFAvTHxUn61cTNPq4Ec4AaAWz7d9nl7djyjQC1EG32vo9PXNycLsLjg0cLRn9vh27M4f6fzMKziRWqXRbJR3vN8AnW/s320/IMG_2483.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419941228064114178" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">We were slated to enter at 7am and sods law I slightly overslept and missed the grand entry!<span style=""> </span>However, this night at 00h30 will provide an opportunity for a re-run!<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Deception Island is perhaps best known for the safe sanctuary it provided to whalers at the beginning of the 20<sup>th</sup> century, moving inexorably southwards after having wiped out the colonies further north.<span style=""> </span>The rather obviously named Whalers’ Bay is located directly to the north of Neptunes Bellows.<span style=""> </span>However, our day was due to end there – not begin.<span style=""> </span>First, we headed to the north of the bay, towards the rather oddly named Telefon Bay (I’m going to have check why it has this name!).<span style=""> </span>We first anchored on the western shore where we proceeded to hike for around three hours in the area of Cross Hill.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhjRSF4h9Les75-luIRCpTp10V-scaArsi_13FydPP-EJ6zey7Ekog-lQRcShNjV59bCPFpZ8p8ZXSo26NhoDKdU-iWS33IAsAqLuV1Tp3JZxNYVkUD6I0YjIc8HzmxecrX42MbiyTAIxj/s1600-h/DSC04806.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhjRSF4h9Les75-luIRCpTp10V-scaArsi_13FydPP-EJ6zey7Ekog-lQRcShNjV59bCPFpZ8p8ZXSo26NhoDKdU-iWS33IAsAqLuV1Tp3JZxNYVkUD6I0YjIc8HzmxecrX42MbiyTAIxj/s320/DSC04806.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419941210027395746" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">It was an inspiring walk, the weather seemingly changing on several occasions, from the fog and cloud of early morning to clear skies and bright sun towards midday.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJupkx9I0DcYyFsfGEcYfbj-jx0bPnkqnO7ONPtthutweloFC0R7W__wmfF7Q2T9DqiNLleVRcG_-0vmx3JAXNJwREuDoai7qUNiBYjhyphenhyphenpsI4QXItLT4HVOKWFoRKVYe2fSh77SvcON3B5/s1600-h/DSC04795.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJupkx9I0DcYyFsfGEcYfbj-jx0bPnkqnO7ONPtthutweloFC0R7W__wmfF7Q2T9DqiNLleVRcG_-0vmx3JAXNJwREuDoai7qUNiBYjhyphenhyphenpsI4QXItLT4HVOKWFoRKVYe2fSh77SvcON3B5/s320/DSC04795.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419941206960488450" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The views were simply stunning.<span style=""> </span>This was good as the island did not offer a great deal of wildlife given its volcanic nature.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBH326Ozih9hrJHMzlj7T8Jw2KQpRzoUTGW3xCYBGqEtydSR9wYCbshlWbXjk817vxP28jpCTMWW-FXYDer781WdVKnmWQleqG9qG4JfzZanOjWAoFG5PFtazCX3aI8UA_savYDPidAOLY/s1600-h/DSC04828.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBH326Ozih9hrJHMzlj7T8Jw2KQpRzoUTGW3xCYBGqEtydSR9wYCbshlWbXjk817vxP28jpCTMWW-FXYDer781WdVKnmWQleqG9qG4JfzZanOjWAoFG5PFtazCX3aI8UA_savYDPidAOLY/s320/DSC04828.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419941215291139282" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Saying that, the seals and ubiquitous penguins were on hand to greet us, and very welcome they were too.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZt93Hy_NW02QIMDNfHtnW8PTG_xPwnIZQ1fe10adKzNsyJR1ojI47Fbzm_JQEhDPj9X4mwqFSoPK2MPJx1kpa6XKTR9JECxTorMcs5J54273PaXKg4n0aSRurNqsdSbuKXdN839gWE5n/s1600-h/IMG_2467.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZt93Hy_NW02QIMDNfHtnW8PTG_xPwnIZQ1fe10adKzNsyJR1ojI47Fbzm_JQEhDPj9X4mwqFSoPK2MPJx1kpa6XKTR9JECxTorMcs5J54273PaXKg4n0aSRurNqsdSbuKXdN839gWE5n/s320/IMG_2467.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419941224264668274" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">On the way back down, we delighted in some improvised sledging down the slopes – this was great fun.<span style=""> </span>However, we have undertaken to be more prepared for future occasions – plastic sheeting at a bare minimum.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Following a hearty lunch back on Europa – including hotdogs on deck – we made the short hop across the bay to the eastern side. <span style=""> </span>Here, the major attraction was the warm shallow waters, heated by the volcanic beach.<span style=""> </span>Most of the crew stripped off and took a dip.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv30LyVMintQZIaRBClJ7JfsNAr_5BT_z3ISn7GxtbbUgW50cmRc1Zat0HCb6mi69gyf54XadmQiz9jdnrELJLdA8rCRuo1s3usYbPHa757Sjs1vGEDxDTnBlGjSKHgeKpDtIKFg80UKug/s1600-h/DSC04838.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv30LyVMintQZIaRBClJ7JfsNAr_5BT_z3ISn7GxtbbUgW50cmRc1Zat0HCb6mi69gyf54XadmQiz9jdnrELJLdA8rCRuo1s3usYbPHa757Sjs1vGEDxDTnBlGjSKHgeKpDtIKFg80UKug/s320/DSC04838.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419945047386230898" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">I was happy to watch proceedings and take a walk along the beach to take some more photos of the incredible scenery, lots of small icebergs dotted the shallows and the still surface of the bay, providing a spectacular foreground for the view across to the other side.<span style=""> </span>On the way back along the beach, I came across two penguins.<span style=""> </span>Sitting down on the beach the normal 5 meters or so away from them, I decided to relax and lay down on the warm pebbles whereupon one of the penguins wobbled over towards and came right over to my foot!<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNNvYShYrRpLNjKgU4K5QuvEuYRILXzaRfvHi2NzUI_XfBRAhkfJg61Ha2ZyYk9cIE8_vaiQent6ByeE8-i0d0zwl-9rXCzi2lw_ygoW_K-D04N-vjl7NIsV4ouY1p_1a3JyFGxgZpsbT/s1600-h/DSC04895.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNNvYShYrRpLNjKgU4K5QuvEuYRILXzaRfvHi2NzUI_XfBRAhkfJg61Ha2ZyYk9cIE8_vaiQent6ByeE8-i0d0zwl-9rXCzi2lw_ygoW_K-D04N-vjl7NIsV4ouY1p_1a3JyFGxgZpsbT/s320/DSC04895.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419945053941670146" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Alternately looking at me, the beach, Europa, and the swimmers below, he seemed to be mulling the understandable question “what the hell??” Or perhaps he was just too used to it all, too blasé.<span style=""> </span>Can our penguin friends be blasé as well as stress free?<span style=""> </span>What great animals.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">In the early evening we motored south back across the bay, heading for Neptunes Bellows.<span style=""> </span>We took a pause in the middle of the bay to allow the ship in front of us time to quit Whalers’ Bay (I kid you not!) which provided an opportunity for a drink on the foredeck with a good read.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFFK1EX5oF8_s_1KZwmS5-8yGPNnFTkLj7vVBFWRSAhDYtxTkcYIJL0ZaUA7qIWlcYlNUPL_JLYJv_uqzfnIzdsbq3lliMG_b6uZlOoFj0K7S5HrAkAkeeyasnaDFtqui5-3vEjTbFDtbz/s1600-h/DSC04906.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFFK1EX5oF8_s_1KZwmS5-8yGPNnFTkLj7vVBFWRSAhDYtxTkcYIJL0ZaUA7qIWlcYlNUPL_JLYJv_uqzfnIzdsbq3lliMG_b6uZlOoFj0K7S5HrAkAkeeyasnaDFtqui5-3vEjTbFDtbz/s320/DSC04906.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419948105336342178" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>Unbeatable setting as the sun started setting – slowly – over the western hills.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcaU3H9OpXLBsCYQTVf7kKQJVQj_jnnd3akhkeOEEtuS0gEy4yHre5eapzSy6sWLFnKukxlTelU-bp0W4FURO3WP0mNrii1RIyepd48tOKJKHIlApr2DcN51D2kEY7d3cs-2JYBDRCSso/s1600-h/DSC04904.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcaU3H9OpXLBsCYQTVf7kKQJVQj_jnnd3akhkeOEEtuS0gEy4yHre5eapzSy6sWLFnKukxlTelU-bp0W4FURO3WP0mNrii1RIyepd48tOKJKHIlApr2DcN51D2kEY7d3cs-2JYBDRCSso/s320/DSC04904.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419948100682643682" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">After dinner we were able to enter Whalers’ Bay and appreciate the horror and folly of what was committed here, in a relatively short time-span between 1905 and the early 1930s.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-apDcQwK0I6rVE8LuZf9Xx4geXzgnuIgCdQ4Bl4x8HFRJoC4Vvs0BFXBVm6sqBZ-zlyyTxNLkpgv-oW5mOiY5v6M-i6e6dS7x9LTYT5h0wcFsTgfEAZvowYUJA1-LmE9Ii1lPdGWMmL5/s1600-h/DSC04933.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-apDcQwK0I6rVE8LuZf9Xx4geXzgnuIgCdQ4Bl4x8HFRJoC4Vvs0BFXBVm6sqBZ-zlyyTxNLkpgv-oW5mOiY5v6M-i6e6dS7x9LTYT5h0wcFsTgfEAZvowYUJA1-LmE9Ii1lPdGWMmL5/s320/DSC04933.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420302119466280658" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">In a pretty considerable twist of fate, the old buildings have now been deemed sites of historical interest and so are left on the beach.<span style=""> </span>One can still see the old boilers which were used to boil down the whale carcasses and bones, as well as the storage vats.<span style=""><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirN65hJJjT5g9jUJWbGAODS-OaRUphXrwbqFrvkAFOfxt77u4LpRVGNrjZl4UYce6jf7VHGvNraS6so0kSVgmTsaKcDsdB7WoeBMG-2bzbsPM2GxSvv465MhrH_xGqeDjimle5OMv1O9Et/s1600-h/DSC04941.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirN65hJJjT5g9jUJWbGAODS-OaRUphXrwbqFrvkAFOfxt77u4LpRVGNrjZl4UYce6jf7VHGvNraS6so0kSVgmTsaKcDsdB7WoeBMG-2bzbsPM2GxSvv465MhrH_xGqeDjimle5OMv1O9Et/s320/DSC04941.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420302130838858658" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">All remarkably preserved, unlike the whales.<span style=""> </span>Towards the end of World War II the British set up a scientific station, but it, together with other bases on Deception, were wiped out by a volcanic eruption in the late 1960s.<span style=""> </span>In places, one can see the twisted metal remains of old bases.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2fcS4otJokg00vIdxs01N1gOpwwqP2ZVoISgkvrsN-hZm1widOBkijqcSBJW4uzkf48NJfaIyjQGlo8Fa6Mm1f76UxPqenxOVryURN09z0MtIOLn2i6Su2cShyWoeY0T6SRtpJA2wLa4/s1600-h/DSC04943.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2fcS4otJokg00vIdxs01N1gOpwwqP2ZVoISgkvrsN-hZm1widOBkijqcSBJW4uzkf48NJfaIyjQGlo8Fa6Mm1f76UxPqenxOVryURN09z0MtIOLn2i6Su2cShyWoeY0T6SRtpJA2wLa4/s320/DSC04943.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420302143715670962" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A haunting presence on the beautiful snowy beaches.<span style=""> </span>Currently Deception has two active bases, one Spanish and a smaller Argentine base.<span style=""> </span>In past decades, bases, particularly those from the UK, Argentina and Chile, were less concerned with scientific research and more interested in planting a flag (both metaphorically and physically) on parts of the Antarctica, given they all had (read have) competing claims on this territory.<span style=""> </span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH1p5rRsOMz1MJnys-idgJdlzk6AbgPEtCYSAtxyThaSHJN0Q6BrNOXhFXo0pqjhCA43TomHa_rOQ183XhCo8FNr46vUZHxhf1e5FX1R_CqWb7kLRMJupdRS3wRT1-ZVaMsR5rvhpOQ00R/s1600-h/DSC04942.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH1p5rRsOMz1MJnys-idgJdlzk6AbgPEtCYSAtxyThaSHJN0Q6BrNOXhFXo0pqjhCA43TomHa_rOQ183XhCo8FNr46vUZHxhf1e5FX1R_CqWb7kLRMJupdRS3wRT1-ZVaMsR5rvhpOQ00R/s320/DSC04942.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420302134675802994" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">When the capitals would, from time to time, issue edicts to their bases instructing them to deliver a formal complaint to one of the other bases, the crews would usually take this as an invitation for the hosting of a party in the base receiving the formal warning!<span style=""> </span>International cooperation working smoothly.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxzMW1MK_4fHShmfmdTb0mAxYhaSGtLDjJ4QdsCV4UhUxRohNZQFOOA2hGTYmUAr4i0Z11QbN_SrdddKwpfAqxE-C795OBbeZBeqBetRqCC3cC4Ojaz0l0qECAfya3varCDiw8rzmkq4v/s1600-h/DSC04948.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxzMW1MK_4fHShmfmdTb0mAxYhaSGtLDjJ4QdsCV4UhUxRohNZQFOOA2hGTYmUAr4i0Z11QbN_SrdddKwpfAqxE-C795OBbeZBeqBetRqCC3cC4Ojaz0l0qECAfya3varCDiw8rzmkq4v/s320/DSC04948.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420309903598360434" border="0" /></a>Writing after breakfast now on Saturday 5 December, a short update on our departure from Deception around midnight.<span style=""> </span>I was glad to have stayed up for it as the Europa had to patiently push her way through the pack ice.<span style=""> </span><br /></p><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTLz-1WkkzTmYphZqJW1QlH7nuzsZuHRpEDDRTRXSYMozFs-0eHbn2r4s8kt5yJO_-RzTpyyAgw6q6DS8BEU1CH-oJdWhOw4MPg8oYKrBFhehR7d8ppMBKTq_NjzFTTIiRdI2Zs9zhbld/s1600-h/DSC04959.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTLz-1WkkzTmYphZqJW1QlH7nuzsZuHRpEDDRTRXSYMozFs-0eHbn2r4s8kt5yJO_-RzTpyyAgw6q6DS8BEU1CH-oJdWhOw4MPg8oYKrBFhehR7d8ppMBKTq_NjzFTTIiRdI2Zs9zhbld/s320/DSC04959.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420309915298520066" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">I finally had an inkling of the kind of scene faced by countless explorers, none more so than Shackleton whose story I had been reading prior to departure.<span style=""> </span>With the sky still light even post midnight, we inched forward, the permanent crew and an interloper (me) on the bow keeping a lookout and trying to identify the best way through.<span style=""> </span>Initially we took the direct route: pushing the Europa slowly, but firmly into the ice pack.<span style=""> </span><br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyBJMXfMf6RiEfLdyUEKiCIIyYLr7jD64zvYL3M-C9F2kv4-7o5d-MDGMeLZzHT1ogM-CKl0vTpEq6dhzNDQZGij3Xzh8nU2nM9GjKzfeBNoX4SerBEEYqggDIGqbiT881GdTEnQ80tYz3/s1600-h/DSC04954.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyBJMXfMf6RiEfLdyUEKiCIIyYLr7jD64zvYL3M-C9F2kv4-7o5d-MDGMeLZzHT1ogM-CKl0vTpEq6dhzNDQZGij3Xzh8nU2nM9GjKzfeBNoX4SerBEEYqggDIGqbiT881GdTEnQ80tYz3/s320/DSC04954.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420309905913832274" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The ice bunched up and compressed, but didn’t yield to the pressure of the hull.<span style=""> </span>Following some consultation and consideration of the rock obstacles in front of us the decision was taken to steer to port, closer to one side of the promontory.<span style=""> </span><br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJCi73A44Ebupuj9hcZOuLWXhcKQWmz067rE2ihijV-U5fjWPHBnH-OJ4ohkZ-jFFLg1v62q9zOlKtHE0wyqlwaQFZiIDNI5OHlPaQH6FcaSswEyn1726n5xWuykI2ap1dpI58n7hE9taw/s1600-h/DSC04974.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJCi73A44Ebupuj9hcZOuLWXhcKQWmz067rE2ihijV-U5fjWPHBnH-OJ4ohkZ-jFFLg1v62q9zOlKtHE0wyqlwaQFZiIDNI5OHlPaQH6FcaSswEyn1726n5xWuykI2ap1dpI58n7hE9taw/s320/DSC04974.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5420309921761800898" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The ice here was less compact and we eventually pushed through, the ice either cracking under the bow or being forced aside, crashing into adjoining flows like giant pieces of a puzzle.<span style=""> </span>Eventually, we were free.<span style=""> </span>On the starboard side behind Deception’s mountains, the sunset lingered on the horizon providing the perfect backdrop to an excellent day.</span>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-20310575891718603092009-12-10T09:00:00.000-08:002009-12-29T13:50:34.990-08:00South Shetland Islands<span style="font-size:180%;"><b><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Ship Log</span></b></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; line-height: normal;">
<br /><b><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"></span></b><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Greetings from Vernadsky Ukrainian research base! At 65 degrees south, the furthest point south we'll reach on the trip. Lovely sunny and warmish day - just visited the base and sampled their vodka.</span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Wonderful trip. Very lucky with the weather, often very clear allowing great vistas. Seen many penguins, seals and today humpback whales in the Lemaire Channel. Four more days in Antarctica before Drake 2!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;">
<br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"></span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Amazing first week in Antarctica, taking in the South Shetland Islands - Barrientos, Edinburgh Hil, Yankee Harbour, Half Moon Island - Deception Island in the Bransfield Strait, Trinity Island and finally reaching the continent proper at Neko and Paradise Harbours, having followed the coastal islands and seen Enterprise and Cuverville Islands in the Gerlach Strait (Belgian names abound here! Weird seeing Anvers, Brabant, ... populated by Penguins!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">
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Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";} </style> <![endif]--><span style="font-size:180%;"><b style=""><span style="" lang="EN-GB">Thursday 3 December, from Barrientos Island to Yankee Harbour & Half Moon Island</span></b></span><p></p><ul><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 62°32.7 South / 059°53.2 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Yankee Harbour: 62°31.6 South / 059°53.2 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Half Moon Island: 62°35.5 South / 059°53.7 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">20h00: 62°35.2 South / 059°52.9 West</span></li></ul>
<br /><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">03h45: anchor watch from 2am through to 4am.<span style=""> </span>Quite a few duties, the main one being to ensure that the ship does not drag from anchor and that no icebergs are on a collision path with us.<span style=""> </span>On watch with Kelvin, a Canadian who is making a film documentary of a travel from Antarctica to the Arctic.<span style=""> </span>He filmed part of the watch, well briefly.<span style=""> </span>It is cold, windy but otherwise fine.<span style=""> </span>Signing off as too early in the morning to write more. <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">18h00: Another full day of island touring and landings – and it is not yet over.<span style=""> </span>Having worked the anchor shift, I quickly returned to my bunk to catch up on much needed sleep. Saying that, sleeping in Antarctica sometimes feels like time wasted as you never know what you might be missing outside!<span style=""> </span>Today was a case in point as I knew the Europa was due to weigh anchor at 6am and head off to our next landings.<span style=""> </span>So come 9am it was a case of dragging myself out of bed for breakfast and another day in Antarctic paradise!<span style=""> </span>Our itinerary today has taken us around<b style=""> </b>the coast, heading away from Barrientos Island and in the direction of the larger Livingstone Island.<span style=""> </span>We were making two landings at Yankee Harbour and Half Moon Island.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqby66IEAQ-O1hsmLSxImOM7NwKPCO0blqSFmTkpq1Zyu2qcv221zMK0GPigtDx0bH4idL1bYv-XzJLBj05dV_68cPpRcA1XigZachwVE6Cy8Vo5QjN7g32J3zKIyMdx2EzBTWHQ9GL0j/s1600-h/DSC04674.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqby66IEAQ-O1hsmLSxImOM7NwKPCO0blqSFmTkpq1Zyu2qcv221zMK0GPigtDx0bH4idL1bYv-XzJLBj05dV_68cPpRcA1XigZachwVE6Cy8Vo5QjN7g32J3zKIyMdx2EzBTWHQ9GL0j/s320/DSC04674.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419172580577423970" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Ahead of these trips, we took a detour from our programme to visit the aptly named Edinburgh Hill – a huge volcanic rock standing high and majestic at the end of a large bay.<span style=""> </span>Approaching the Hill is an amazing experience as the Europa has to steer through a relatively extensive icefield.<span style="">
<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWY5EVgE3b3JRJCgASNVhYTEXFEN3JVpHKpcf_vTgl5sf0SoMlhTX3RB2UhKZGG_h-thY36T9hmlaJGYyRAhfGF1WrQSKD7A3mnUQ_9_u5hABv1DvxV9RDbKs_gfHXJ_Kv_5k8JCN306vo/s1600-h/DSC04644.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWY5EVgE3b3JRJCgASNVhYTEXFEN3JVpHKpcf_vTgl5sf0SoMlhTX3RB2UhKZGG_h-thY36T9hmlaJGYyRAhfGF1WrQSKD7A3mnUQ_9_u5hABv1DvxV9RDbKs_gfHXJ_Kv_5k8JCN306vo/s320/DSC04644.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419172579711346722" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">As small bergs passed by there was an audible crackle sound as the ice reacted with the water.<span style=""> </span>It felt as though the ice had all originated from the promontory and the glacier behind it.<span style=""> </span>The rest of the morning was taken up with reading in the library, both my book on the natural history of Antarctica and checking the charts indicated our journey around the Peninsula islands.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvk0Fib93yVyV5kFi9C6n7dcRi-IJNrq2CzkfzAG-BVhbT8CUPHXYUGkTWo4pO7gIfVuk1jh8veRmL8TETmu2dkBBJHTwJM4wDLGVu8ipCYUzxF70eToBELTKkFqVRracaxAc5nRHSEuUC/s1600-h/DSC04740.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvk0Fib93yVyV5kFi9C6n7dcRi-IJNrq2CzkfzAG-BVhbT8CUPHXYUGkTWo4pO7gIfVuk1jh8veRmL8TETmu2dkBBJHTwJM4wDLGVu8ipCYUzxF70eToBELTKkFqVRracaxAc5nRHSEuUC/s320/DSC04740.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419200547021492962" border="0" /></a>
<br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>Around lunchtime we anchored across the bay at Yankee Harbour.<span style=""> </span>The harbour is named after American sealers who established a temporary refuge there at the height of the sealing trade.<span style=""> </span>Europa is one of the few boats which can actually enter and anchor in the harbour.<span style=""> </span>It is protected by a spit of land on one side and mountains on the other.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDqJ_qkiDTaMm6Y9YP4W4mzrZTc0buuJ1mea8HU_nIbDYv4xYjBR2vhXcb42a2zeNkDqfqIPxgSRz0DRSr6-THFVEWANB4K7VkaDTXin6H74DIbh389p9iJ_YxgJLwAA74NweCIf2b2lWh/s1600-h/DSC04752.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDqJ_qkiDTaMm6Y9YP4W4mzrZTc0buuJ1mea8HU_nIbDYv4xYjBR2vhXcb42a2zeNkDqfqIPxgSRz0DRSr6-THFVEWANB4K7VkaDTXin6H74DIbh389p9iJ_YxgJLwAA74NweCIf2b2lWh/s320/DSC04752.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419200551165896114" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A penguin colony is located at the foot of the mountain while a mixture of seals can be found on the spit of land, mainly Weddel and Elephant Seals.<span style=""> </span>The spit of land also serves as a penguin super-highway, as the gentoos and pin-straps continuously make the trip back and forth to sea to feed.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMRxdS-5-QINbtbLoOblXY8ojNzvd7o2o9GVExtlDBrAMCK7GIRbSC3TlgxvoTKNiClhG1v_cvPexUFNNYa9LUIep0s8U0kn7cmjwpyuXNENCEuBoYwBgYkULbGcy0jnFwjutOfq1_jb8R/s1600-h/IMG_2235.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMRxdS-5-QINbtbLoOblXY8ojNzvd7o2o9GVExtlDBrAMCK7GIRbSC3TlgxvoTKNiClhG1v_cvPexUFNNYa9LUIep0s8U0kn7cmjwpyuXNENCEuBoYwBgYkULbGcy0jnFwjutOfq1_jb8R/s320/IMG_2235.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419200554447440306" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">One partner always remains at the nest to keep the egg warm, so this task is shared.<span style=""> </span>Another first sight – at close-up – was the build up of ice, swept alongside the windward side of the spit.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVP9RDWUxU3Uj-7nChCTdFGeaXRukvcCwk_DQ5lRtB9MJ-Es7elI8OjMnMKaF3LaOonNhde3ORDQzQ183gRz1i7fZHPJkrrcWJvJtCOOul6Fjan_aII5hm-iWcQKHod9GIlKQKIwoP4lb/s1600-h/Antarctica+066.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVP9RDWUxU3Uj-7nChCTdFGeaXRukvcCwk_DQ5lRtB9MJ-Es7elI8OjMnMKaF3LaOonNhde3ORDQzQ183gRz1i7fZHPJkrrcWJvJtCOOul6Fjan_aII5hm-iWcQKHod9GIlKQKIwoP4lb/s320/Antarctica+066.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419200532716843538" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Part of the beach was still a frozen puzzle of beached icebergs, broken ice and frozen sea water!<span style=""> </span>Walking across this was a surreal experience.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMXBBBnLJNjrp5_IZH1g56evfyhPQ7NaNTDXv08KUCTOT_oMO1DTw7T-_6xBl8J1oc7swCbuqI70W72O3i0_uPjc5vGVNO_hnl_1QJlifZFtvPnWwRMN-DhsE4gtPiJZ9nw41ohJM-KVKU/s1600-h/DSC04755.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMXBBBnLJNjrp5_IZH1g56evfyhPQ7NaNTDXv08KUCTOT_oMO1DTw7T-_6xBl8J1oc7swCbuqI70W72O3i0_uPjc5vGVNO_hnl_1QJlifZFtvPnWwRMN-DhsE4gtPiJZ9nw41ohJM-KVKU/s320/DSC04755.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419324434340619906" border="0" /></a>
<br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style=""> </span>Later on we motored around to Half Moon Island.<span style=""> </span>This is a relatively small bay, with an Argentine research base on one side.<span style=""> </span>In previous years, the Europa crew has been welcomed in for hot drinks and chocolate, but we arrived too early in the season – they have not yet arrived.<span style="">
<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXhTUskhNiM9Qij_e5i_WETQfCPk5-IENCqQFzM1sbVPPMV03mcHhrumzHSHps4WYxaQnpzqKuz1Qv-YVSpdaeq6ymVAqztOqMfnVZ12qTNQxjKPx-vqzBZnqnfkW_Le88OhtFqDy3iov/s1600-h/DSC04766.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXhTUskhNiM9Qij_e5i_WETQfCPk5-IENCqQFzM1sbVPPMV03mcHhrumzHSHps4WYxaQnpzqKuz1Qv-YVSpdaeq6ymVAqztOqMfnVZ12qTNQxjKPx-vqzBZnqnfkW_Le88OhtFqDy3iov/s320/DSC04766.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419324447363307762" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A group of us made a landing after dinner, to visit some of the bird colonies.<span style=""> </span>The little black birds we went there explicitly to see duly turned up, returning from a day’s fishing at sea.<span style=""> </span>They are storm petrels and are very small, as my attempts at photographing them revealed!<span style=""> </span>It was a cold end to the day however.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqOhk7peQPx4xHayFzWlZLPc7pt7pFWP2Y-qynIBJo3ddlw4pyoAALJ0jUWhU63tCYYRQV8H8Z1Lqc1n9FlwOQHSozh3yFFFUqLjiRZsGq_6-wCa5vIQyc809V-4-6r80w6AAYdTjRX0M/s1600-h/DSC04765.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqOhk7peQPx4xHayFzWlZLPc7pt7pFWP2Y-qynIBJo3ddlw4pyoAALJ0jUWhU63tCYYRQV8H8Z1Lqc1n9FlwOQHSozh3yFFFUqLjiRZsGq_6-wCa5vIQyc809V-4-6r80w6AAYdTjRX0M/s320/DSC04765.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419324442826171810" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The wind was blowing and it felt a lot colder than this afternoon – admittedly it was past 9pm by then!<span style=""> </span>We hurried back once the sun set in, but some of the views looking over the bay to the far side of where we are moored were pretty sensational.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;font-family:georgia;"><b style=""><span style="" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Wednesday 2 December, Barrientos Island</span></span></b></p> <ul><li style="font-family:georgia;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"></span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 62°03.6 South / 060.14.1 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li style="font-family:georgia;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"></span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 62°18.2 South / 059°52.5 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li style="font-family:georgia;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"></span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 62°27.0 South / 059°.41.5 West<b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family:georgia;">13h15: Barrientos Anchor: 62°24.6 South / 059°44.5 West</span><b style=""><o:p></o:p></b></span></li></ul><span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" lang="EN-GB" ><span style=""> </span>
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mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0cm; mso-para-margin-right:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0cm; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Arrived South Shetland Islands in the night passage. Our watch scheduled for 4am was cancelled as the permanent crew took over the running of the ship at this point. This raised no objections from Red Watch when it was announced via the preceding watch. Getting up at 7h45 we awoke to our first proper Antarctica morning and the view was simply splendid.
<br />
<br /></span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Our course was set for Barrientos Island, part of the Aitcho Islands within the South Shetland Island chain. These islands lie to the northwest of the Antarctic Peninsula and are the first islands one reaches when arriving from the Drake Passage. It took us a few hours to weave our way into the islands, and we extended this slightly as we were early for our visit (we are following a strict schedule around the islands with a load of other cruise ships – however we are yet to see any of them!). But this time was not wasted as we were able to take relatively close up views of icebergs in the vicinity.</span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" lang="EN-GB" ></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIgytRaYWYykP0yAqTn_ot3HL_O-makXBfMrtFMgHL5bqcLy-gy4wQOR1zojXB3G1DprjtLNn4-KO2Kbv-k65VA8iWW9jcQZCFuXMc1ybnwZR3C1jpHkhaWPVmQQMWVHX-epmdFfU3zAZ/s1600-h/DSC04503.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIgytRaYWYykP0yAqTn_ot3HL_O-makXBfMrtFMgHL5bqcLy-gy4wQOR1zojXB3G1DprjtLNn4-KO2Kbv-k65VA8iWW9jcQZCFuXMc1ybnwZR3C1jpHkhaWPVmQQMWVHX-epmdFfU3zAZ/s320/DSC04503.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419153922753312322" border="0" /></a></p><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The vicinity was Discovery Bay, where we also saw a rather large Chilean base on the shore. Many of icebergs have been shaped by the wind, and some of us tried in vain to point towards and through the carved out holes. The picture probably looks better without me in it!
<br />
<br /></span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The scale of the bergs is something else and I don’t think we have seen anything like the largest ones, although this one was pretty impressive. The blues around the berg and the sea are truly incredible and I think my photos were able to catch some of the hues.</span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p><span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" lang="EN-GB" ><span style=""></span></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1xtdE5aNoIGzmbhfCnnCw4ULKQs0Je_rPVBBLugd65cslCq9ZZClHEQ7mlshGzo7iZ5i3MVKBg4CudduA-wswRsga1aAgnrdYToxPT6isxvaQR-KaauHBe6PUWytPWeiR3gdyhDKs4L_J/s1600-h/DSC04536.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1xtdE5aNoIGzmbhfCnnCw4ULKQs0Je_rPVBBLugd65cslCq9ZZClHEQ7mlshGzo7iZ5i3MVKBg4CudduA-wswRsga1aAgnrdYToxPT6isxvaQR-KaauHBe6PUWytPWeiR3gdyhDKs4L_J/s320/DSC04536.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419153931548687778" border="0" /></a></p><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The last mini berg is near our current anchor position and one we have to pay attention to in the anchor night watches – more on this later. The morning shot by and soon it was lunch on deck – lovely Chinese tomato soup (!) and something like a Cornish pasty, but with a Dutch twist. It was great.</span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">And then the time came for our first landing on Barrientos Island, to the north of Discovery Bay. We kitted ourselves out properly, picked up all our essential emergency gear (and cameras, binoculars and all the other stuff!) and we were ready for the short zodiac crossing. Arriving at the beach, we were greeted by a sea of penguins (we had already noted their presence by the distinctive aroma and their calls we could hear from the ship!). One of their number gave me a particularly warm welcome, one which I only truly appreciated on returning to the ship and seeing the photo on a bigger screen!</span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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One could get what I thought was relatively close to them. There is a good pic of me kneeling down with a penguin only a few feet away which I hope I get a copy of.</span><span style=";font-family:";" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" lang="EN-GB" ><span style=""> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquRg6UHxmQi5TMR8mcnTDYoA3cg1xksn03J5hBvM-Qrd0IrsdvLc_TeVeJUC59zl1gi3KIEEJhnsYghwj9IvNSw-FxeS7XKtc2r3iLzALNADytfz7I6pxSnzUoRZ8N8LygonH2V-swDK9/s1600-h/IMG_1636.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquRg6UHxmQi5TMR8mcnTDYoA3cg1xksn03J5hBvM-Qrd0IrsdvLc_TeVeJUC59zl1gi3KIEEJhnsYghwj9IvNSw-FxeS7XKtc2r3iLzALNADytfz7I6pxSnzUoRZ8N8LygonH2V-swDK9/s320/IMG_1636.JPG" alt="" 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has limited the development of a stress mechanism. In any case, they are a lovely animal (smell aside) and we were very fortunate to have arrived at the start of the breeding season. As the pictures show, one penguin sits on the egg in the nest while the other goes off hunting for food in the sea (fish and squid) or looking for material for the nest (including stealing it from other nests!).<o:p></o:p></span></p> <span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" lang="EN-GB" ></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDxB3Dxi_d4XN-DeCquZGzQ5Td0Id7j176h0AtwuA1sIc9sviSUxgQ3DDPDFicQUoaUhVWAm_IX2IueoZWqA1ntZVNFrbdHxkG62OszTuf6SjGBaaxd9LOYsGkO8UB20QMQizhaBIpKkxY/s1600-h/DSC04609.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" 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Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0cm; mso-para-margin-right:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0cm; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">As the clouds rolled in later in the afternoon, I truly felt I was in another world. It had such an eerie feel to it, especially with the sound of the penguins and then the elephant seals. As these the photos show, the elephant seals are pretty big animals. It turns out that the ones we saw were the females.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" lang="EN-GB" ><span style=""> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFq4ilfcVuxJHu0Lf9hu5Ybqio3SO5IiRz34cnLR5rgVbjoS_6k9typmuXCMZQWhJxevgjDEYMCyzWbUUlDHx2hf03ju9slkGnmruharlAi0XtHX-DYV-355_gCGjdjVtHNUiaBpP6hc4/s1600-h/DSC04618.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFq4ilfcVuxJHu0Lf9hu5Ybqio3SO5IiRz34cnLR5rgVbjoS_6k9typmuXCMZQWhJxevgjDEYMCyzWbUUlDHx2hf03ju9slkGnmruharlAi0XtHX-DYV-355_gCGjdjVtHNUiaBpP6hc4/s320/DSC04618.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419161888527468690" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><meta 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This is in contrast to the behaviour of Antarctic fur seals where the males are onshore first to mark out territory for their “harem”. We spent nearly four hours onshore. It was a magnificent experience and a great first landing, we were very lucky with the weather. Long may it continue! We were treated to steak for dinner tonight and then everyone was comparing photos and chatting about the day in the bar later. 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<br /><span style="font-size:180%;">
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Ship Log</span></span>
<br />
<br />Drake: 60'56,7 South, 061'27,9 West. Midday Dec 1. Snowing for 12 hours. Fog. Heading south 125 degrees. Mix sail / motor. Watch 8-12 and 16-20 today: snow ball fights on helm. Amazing helming in snow & Antarctic gale. Arrival Barrientos Isl Wed @ 14h00. All well.
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<br /><span style="font-size:180%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">December 1, Drake Passage</span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">
<br /></span><ul><li><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 60°26.0 South / 062°36.3 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 60°40.0 South / 062°05.6 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" > </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 60°55.7 South / 061°28.4 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" > </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">16h00: 61°12.6 South / 061°13.6 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" > </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style=";font-family:";" 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<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h50: the first day of December and the first day of snow! Snow falling on a tallship, awakening to the sight of a white ship ploughing a forlorn path through the fog and grey sea.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXE6hq0rta25ChttWoBLaQDQHz4ebcUWbmVqy0X1K-jBDwqFFLMv7D2Z-ijYYB2c6SRvZ9e8UvmbTNmFnpZoLDo0k7QPvT0sqkddOPFgYbURAL8Vz4UcsOPSLRbYb6rYhtvYuPG0JQTGm/s1600-h/DSC04431.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXE6hq0rta25ChttWoBLaQDQHz4ebcUWbmVqy0X1K-jBDwqFFLMv7D2Z-ijYYB2c6SRvZ9e8UvmbTNmFnpZoLDo0k7QPvT0sqkddOPFgYbURAL8Vz4UcsOPSLRbYb6rYhtvYuPG0JQTGm/s320/DSC04431.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417669697423811394" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Watch this morning began at 08h00.<span style=""> </span>Well I say began, it began for some of the watch with the first duties but for me I was able to grab some quick breakfast before getting totally kitted out for the first run.<span style=""> </span>Given it is cold and not so pleasant, we have reduced the watch times from 30 to 20 minutes.<span style=""> </span>Outside it is spectacular, despite the cold.<span style=""> </span>Everyone is straining their eyes to spot the first iceberg since we have a competition on board to see who chose the closest hour.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_PL1fCFHQaErogL3wf4kvMh6HXvE2YZhBXawVL_rujiyzXedy44YoPQI68Pnv0QF3dpwmx1HNm-QP_eAL-azC4ndajyKDA6rw3tT4NuQERIaUtQpLXdLLQ9dRrDODPDfoZxwCeDcw-cGJ/s1600-h/DSC04430.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_PL1fCFHQaErogL3wf4kvMh6HXvE2YZhBXawVL_rujiyzXedy44YoPQI68Pnv0QF3dpwmx1HNm-QP_eAL-azC4ndajyKDA6rw3tT4NuQERIaUtQpLXdLLQ9dRrDODPDfoZxwCeDcw-cGJ/s320/DSC04430.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417669686339836210" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">I cheated by getting the one of the permanent crew to show me the ice chart.<span style=""> </span>It looked like early tomorrow morning, so I went for 1h00 and Frida, a co-conspirator, 5h00.<span style=""> </span>We’ll see.<span style=""> </span>Today brings another watch at 16h00 and in between some briefing on making landings in Antarctica.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">10h10: Just back from another turn on the helm.<span style=""> </span>It’s a fabulous experience. The snow raging around, the ship set fair at 125 degrees south and the bow crashing in and out of the swell.<span style="">
<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7RhLBLIDYFu0FfjFltbaJH0iFoR0lwPbg8QJJm4yJoKQrqIcRtb1Cwthd1K4bGYjYaqM7PIOBmNmJp77AUKp79ruozRfB4LljjLmdwkxUoLkx9ZO50iz3E7ZuWl9Osh1lYlj5ujqOI5xR/s1600-h/DSC04432.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7RhLBLIDYFu0FfjFltbaJH0iFoR0lwPbg8QJJm4yJoKQrqIcRtb1Cwthd1K4bGYjYaqM7PIOBmNmJp77AUKp79ruozRfB4LljjLmdwkxUoLkx9ZO50iz3E7ZuWl9Osh1lYlj5ujqOI5xR/s320/DSC04432.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417669699873517122" border="0" /></a>
<br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Wonderful experience – especially when it can be digested in small bitesize chunks of 20 minutes with 40 minutes back in the warmth of the deck house.<span style=""> </span>One can only marvel at the determination and courage of sailors over the centuries who battled against these conditions and far worse to explore these waters.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttDc4QQjtqJYXm-DzLmCo4ugNhbCYWV3cm_sKndrRgFXI_OPB4SVFzrvYdxkE6xDV_zQrcVddv2yejAsGeP0y3WPtmu-vj-YGW7yGMs4jOspXHsAk9JoSynPqqqS_paq4wGuPtt9-rwKT/s1600-h/DSC04435.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttDc4QQjtqJYXm-DzLmCo4ugNhbCYWV3cm_sKndrRgFXI_OPB4SVFzrvYdxkE6xDV_zQrcVddv2yejAsGeP0y3WPtmu-vj-YGW7yGMs4jOspXHsAk9JoSynPqqqS_paq4wGuPtt9-rwKT/s320/DSC04435.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417669712396659074" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">
<br /><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p>So back to the other members of the crew on my watch.<span style=""> </span>Frida has been a good co-conspirator on various things, the stay sail setting yesterday and the cheeky manoeuvre on trying to beat the odds on the iceberg competition.<span style=""> </span>She is from Switzerland and has rather amazingly cycled down from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia.<span style=""> </span>In my book, that’s pretty crazy - the experience of cycling 20kms around El Calafate still fresh in my mind - but hats off to her.<span style=""> </span>Another person on our watch who has travelled extensively is Carolien.<span style=""> </span>She has been travelling for eight months, mainly around South America and only decided to join the Europa trip two days before it cast off in Ushuaia! That’s what I call spontaneous! A final person to write about in this first part on Europa characters is Erin.<span style=""> </span>She is Canadian and is a GP when back home.<span style=""> </span>Clearly a very useful person to have on one’s watch, although naturally we do have a permanent GP on board too!<span style=""> </span>She comes from Vancouver and is used to the outdoor life.<span style=""> </span>She owns a small cabin up in the mountains where she lives and explained to me how in the summer she does cross-country skiing to get up there.<span style=""> </span>Those Canadians and their outdoors lifestyle!<span style=""> </span>More on the permanent crew later.<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<br /><span style="font-size:180%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">November 30</span><span style="font-weight: bold;">, Drake Passage</span></span>
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style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 58°44.8 South / 063°40.8 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 59°07.2 South / 063°15.2 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">16h00: 59°27.1 South / 062°48.7 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""><span style=";font-family:";font-size:7pt;" ></span></span></span><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">20h00: 59°48.1 South / 062°46.3 West<o:p></o:p></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">24h00: 60°09.1 South / 062°52.7 West</span></li></ul>
<br /> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">20h00-24h00:<span style=""> </span>I’m writing this blog during Red Watch between 8pm and midnight.<span style=""> </span>We take 30 minutes on shift outside, either on the helm or on look-out, with 30 minutes then back inside the deck house to warm up and do things like write a blog.<span style=""> </span>Today has been an excellent day, good weather for the most part, in fact feeling relatively nice this afternoon.<span style=""> </span>Now however the wind has picked up, the sky has got greyer and the sea has taken on a distinctly sombre and threatening mood.<span style="">
<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1ZLwn8gI9AvE7_T7miLupF-fg8tJxr8CUnxBaJ2EtG1948j_UREL1_lXnLvslrDULvUxvlno6f1zAQx9EDrSzwUCIFJLYUEcmaneVioi51ASn6-uszIGV15ETjgLR0naqCav5b5HytrJ/s1600-h/DSC04427.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1ZLwn8gI9AvE7_T7miLupF-fg8tJxr8CUnxBaJ2EtG1948j_UREL1_lXnLvslrDULvUxvlno6f1zAQx9EDrSzwUCIFJLYUEcmaneVioi51ASn6-uszIGV15ETjgLR0naqCav5b5HytrJ/s320/DSC04427.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418061729438643106" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The re-appearance of wind is greatly welcome as it has allowed us to put up some more sails.<span style=""> </span>For most of the day until tea-time we were just under motor sail.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The break in sailing did allow the permanent crew to undertake some repairs to the sails and this gave myself and Freda, another member of the voyage crew our task of the day.<span style=""> </span>Initially roped in by Val to help carry the repaired sail across the deck to the foremast where it was to be reattached, I volunteered additional help.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq3cr0nu_FJkwJjl5klaDNq8negX3gJ3eCJCP3pKkjGA2w1vbN93spyEFTfY03cYBEo-Cn_q0Fjn144P29VgwTG2grhk52y2NwQctwn1ZwCsPnHaYFZlMqfRfjFedENAvqviRMUQcUaPju/s1600-h/Antarctica+3dec+459.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq3cr0nu_FJkwJjl5klaDNq8negX3gJ3eCJCP3pKkjGA2w1vbN93spyEFTfY03cYBEo-Cn_q0Fjn144P29VgwTG2grhk52y2NwQctwn1ZwCsPnHaYFZlMqfRfjFedENAvqviRMUQcUaPju/s320/Antarctica+3dec+459.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418068526109319458" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">Such offers are rarely declined on a tallship and soon Frida and I found ourselves teetering a couple of meters up the foremast in the process of attaching the sail back to the rings.<span style=""> </span>Essentially this should have been a rather simple task, but the two of us conspired to make it a much more difficult one, having to ask Val for assistance several times over!
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiANxMLzCtAxWtnVjrM9p7sBwuj3X9MALct2Iqivw4g9QB5D7Z-O5H_clyjs1qqIgvnt9EZ8UQozbh5WsvrF3dhZEQ68WnTrlSAm3GWZb3-hldpRSSfuUJR1-9Sx5PILHki8YpolT-GrYoT/s1600-h/Antarctica+3dec+458.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiANxMLzCtAxWtnVjrM9p7sBwuj3X9MALct2Iqivw4g9QB5D7Z-O5H_clyjs1qqIgvnt9EZ8UQozbh5WsvrF3dhZEQ68WnTrlSAm3GWZb3-hldpRSSfuUJR1-9Sx5PILHki8YpolT-GrYoT/s320/Antarctica+3dec+458.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418068523227210162" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">But we got there, and I can happily say that the sail has now been set – and for the moment – is firmly attached.<span style=""> </span>Long may it continue.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">The other highlight of the day was the whales we saw late afternoon.<span style=""> </span>Some of the voyage crew were taking climbing lessons up the rigging at the time and spotted at least two pods in the distance, at least 8 whales.<span style=""> </span>After much discussion and consultation, Dan, our onboard expert, decided that the whales in question belonged to the Sei family.<span style=""> </span>Pretty big ones.<span style=""> </span>Certainly they looked big from our perspective, although they didn’t come close to the boat.<span style=""> </span>We learned later on that these whales do not go down to the Antarctic and that where we saw them was pretty much the limit of their range.<span style=""> </span>They were also heading north, confirming this analysis.<span style=""> </span>An incredible sight, as always, to see whales in the open ocean. No photos of them though as Frida and I were still working on the sails! Other whales were to follow though...<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:";" lang="EN-GB">A final interesting event to record came during our night watch in the early morning of Monday.<span style=""> </span>Nick and I were on foreward lookout when suddenly a bright flash lit up the horizon, a trail of white and then green light heading down towards the water.<span style=""> </span>Nick thought it was a flare.<span style=""> </span>Right from the start I wondered whether it was a meteor of some kind.<span style=""> </span>We radioed in the event to the wheelhouse and following a short chat with Martijn, the First Mate, we concluded that it had been a meteorite of some kind! Unfortunately I didn’t reach quickly enough to grab a camera and record this special event...<o:p></o:p></span></p>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-3728256303842350152009-11-30T01:42:00.000-08:002009-12-29T13:50:35.025-08:00From Beagle Channel to Drake Passage & Beyond<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuyAUFiqNzg8BR9GSoWfjZfFWDa5Gf_zsVMoalgWuNsgfiev6vvXrPvnqVHBdEDy1brV2rEQIFllNWYdp9LivC5_yDtuTylQ_VxpC5SKgLHGV01Ljyqk-E6OvNyRCygm8chMflXRwv3yu6/s1600-h/DSC04407.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuyAUFiqNzg8BR9GSoWfjZfFWDa5Gf_zsVMoalgWuNsgfiev6vvXrPvnqVHBdEDy1brV2rEQIFllNWYdp9LivC5_yDtuTylQ_VxpC5SKgLHGV01Ljyqk-E6OvNyRCygm8chMflXRwv3yu6/s320/DSC04407.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417010724500519490" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;font-size:180%;" >Ship Log</span><span style="font-size:100%;">
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<br />2nd day. Third of way across Drake. Last night very rough. On watch today at 04h00-08h00. Sea sick: added lots of colour to the ocean. Recovered quickly. Sailing instruction today. Watch at midnight. Arrive Wednesday at 14h00. All well.
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mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-18.0pt; font-family:Wingdings;} ol {margin-bottom:0cm;} ul {margin-bottom:0cm;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";} </style> <![endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size:180%;"><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-size:100%;"><b style=""><span style="" lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-size:180%;">Sunday 29 November, Drake Passage</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></span> <ul style="font-family:georgia;"><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB">04h00: 56°11.8 South / 065°46.6 West<o:p></o:p></span></span></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size:100%;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"> </span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">08h00: 56°30.2 South / 065°24.2 West<o:p></o:p></span></span><!--[endif]--></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size:100%;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"> </span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">12h00: 56°49.1 South / 065°09.7 West<o:p></o:p></span></span><!--[endif]--></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size:100%;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"> </span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">16h00: 57°14.7 South / 064°47.7 West<o:p></o:p></span></span><!--[endif]--></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size:100%;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"> </span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">20h00: 57°37.5 South / 064°27.3 West<o:p></o:p></span></span><!--[endif]--></li><li><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size:100%;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style=""><span style="font-size:7pt;"> </span></span></span><span style="" lang="EN-GB">24h00: 57°58.0 South / 064°10.2 West<o:p></o:p></span></span><!--[endif]--></li></ul> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB"><o:p> </o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB">19h00: Just began to write and the call for dinner came up.<span style=""> </span>Such is the routine of a tallship in the southern seas.<span style=""> </span>The last 24 hours has seen us all settle into ship’s life, getting to know our other crew members and the professional crew.<span style=""> </span>Leaving the Channel pilot yesterday morning, we were quickly taken on a series of briefings about ship safety and a guide of the ship.<span style=""> </span>Much of it was pretty straightforward, but the routine on abandoning ship was presented in such an orderly fashion on the video that one could wonder if we would ever come across such conditions in these seas!<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6gv_a5C-uW37pKGADL9WEogwN1myb6lFd4bMyE7loWMDU6MoTgZKbZchrvRm_Z3lF_xhaEdTFsMIwy8tu2i7Sz7Tak2sTni0_U6PLWqO0yXXTOgS0ZFtWrvAeaRN_wKCHGaNuoMw4qX2/s1600-h/DSC04419.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6gv_a5C-uW37pKGADL9WEogwN1myb6lFd4bMyE7loWMDU6MoTgZKbZchrvRm_Z3lF_xhaEdTFsMIwy8tu2i7Sz7Tak2sTni0_U6PLWqO0yXXTOgS0ZFtWrvAeaRN_wKCHGaNuoMw4qX2/s320/DSC04419.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417106642900678226" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB">In a similar way to the Soren Larsen we are organised in a series of watches.<span style=""> </span>The difference with the Soren, though, is that the watches are slightly rotated each day so one is not working, say, a 12-4 slot over a period of several days.<span style=""> </span>We had briefings on setting the sails, look-out and taking the helm.<span style=""> </span>Memories of the Soren quickly came back as I remembered many of the sail and rope names, though remembering how to coil ropes exactly proved another matter entirely: I blame the Dutch – they have a slightly different system.<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB">Our first watch was at 16h00 running through to 20h00. We were leaving the Beagle Channel and heading south – as far as the wind would allow us – around the remaining islands of the continent, with Cape Horn and its infamous seas ahead of us.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieEsLIiFY_NWUunsXQd3s4luzczhPoLCu-iIl7D47K4pgoXEjoX9txHsuWCC6S29fH13kPvkLG8ha7oK2JADy9NBWyib0ZuhcF63LNTp5i5n1dJEfHJfgfL8SHBa436VFTdi6VBy7gZrBs/s1600-h/DSC04415.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieEsLIiFY_NWUunsXQd3s4luzczhPoLCu-iIl7D47K4pgoXEjoX9txHsuWCC6S29fH13kPvkLG8ha7oK2JADy9NBWyib0ZuhcF63LNTp5i5n1dJEfHJfgfL8SHBa436VFTdi6VBy7gZrBs/s320/DSC04415.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417106634263928930" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB">After dinner and the first two episodes of an Attenborough programme on Antarctica to get us in the mood, if more were needed, I retired to my cabin to get some shut-eye.<span style=""> </span>However this proved something of a challenge as we finally arrived in the seas around Cape Horn in late evening.<span style=""> </span>I didn’t actually see the scale of the waves being below deck, but people on the other watches say it was pretty bad.<span style=""> </span>It certainly felt bad in bed.<span style=""> </span>I swear the boat was tipping from side to side to the tune of 45 degree angles.<span style=""> </span>I was concerned about the possibility of falling out of the bunk – especially since I’m in the top one!<span style=""> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" face="georgia"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="" lang="EN-GB">But sleep in the end was achieved, and I felt relatively ready when the call came for our 4am.<span style=""> </span>Blinking out into the cold pre-dawn morning, the wind blowing a gale and the seas still looking on the rough side, the next four hours suddenly looked a long way in the distance!<span style=""> </span>Unfortunately for me, my combination of tablets and wrist bands to combat sea sickness let me down and soon I was feeling distinctly queasy.<span style=""> </span>Thankfully, I didn’t go for too long before being sick and accordingly added some of my own colour to the Southern Oceans.<span style=""> </span>Three times.<span style=""> </span>But recovery came relatively quickly, following some attempt at breakfast and a surprising solid three hours sleep before a sail instruction lesson at midday.<span style=""> </span>I had managed to recall all the names of the sails so rattled through them when our group was asked by the crew member – not in an attempt to impress you understand, but rather being more than conscious of the time I could handle being inside and not lying down!<o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: georgia;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size:100%;">And so the rest of the day has meandered along.<span style=""> </span>Another short watch after lunch so that the watches end up rotated.<span style=""> </span>And now, sailing along calmly in the early evening: it is 22h30 now and the view outside the deckhouse is truly magical.<span style=""> </span>The sky is still light and I’m looking out at the remains of the sunset on the starboard side.<span style=""> </span>
<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy3JvvQvNDE_usiJ7vMiwyWkMaYU4K8pmgN_OlNZJtlHL_pwi9iKm04dUHO2q6-sGIvPC3VogVmXtHTA1f0D_aDLPH1P294ozGMEh7CQZPJSpq-2wBsG0QHI8wBBVOy3aPOpWlsOQNF_4/s1600-h/DSC04413.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy3JvvQvNDE_usiJ7vMiwyWkMaYU4K8pmgN_OlNZJtlHL_pwi9iKm04dUHO2q6-sGIvPC3VogVmXtHTA1f0D_aDLPH1P294ozGMEh7CQZPJSpq-2wBsG0QHI8wBBVOy3aPOpWlsOQNF_4/s320/DSC04413.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417106630378026866" border="0" /></a></p><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size:100%;">The sea is rapidly taking on a grey hue, but it is a lot calmer than it was this time yesterday.<span style=""> </span>One unfortunate thing is that we don’t have a lot of wind so we’re being assisted by the motor engine.<span style=""> </span>But there is not a lot you can do about the wind!<span style=""> </span>Our arrival in Antarctica is scheduled for 14h00 on Wednesday.</span>
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<br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" >Saturday 28 November, Beagle Channel</span><span style="font-size:100%;">
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<br /></span><ul><li><span style="font-size:100%;">08h00: 54°54.9 South / 067°20.0 West</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">12h00: 55°22.9 South / 066°29.2 West</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">16h00: 55°22.9 South / 066°27.4 West</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">20h00: 55°35.5 South / 066°12.1 West</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">24h00: 55°57.6 South / 066°02.5 West</span></li></ul><span style="font-size:100%;">
<br />9h40: On board Europa. Embarked yesterday afternoon at 17h00 and departed the port at 4am this morning.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfOitXzj2CQdsPtfznCN3JFkiXJik5VcD8ZE8OJeP1hIP13LToeS1oE9jMOXlZaiejwutlqtxzAxY3ETvxbpYP71lwGOtUjgNGeW6lL7catYqD_y69zXtnNUpCDjn3xRL3Ta-o-azHk7BW/s1600-h/DSC04380.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfOitXzj2CQdsPtfznCN3JFkiXJik5VcD8ZE8OJeP1hIP13LToeS1oE9jMOXlZaiejwutlqtxzAxY3ETvxbpYP71lwGOtUjgNGeW6lL7catYqD_y69zXtnNUpCDjn3xRL3Ta-o-azHk7BW/s320/DSC04380.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417010705663708914" border="0" /></a>Currently sailing along the Beagle Channel in an easterly direction heading towards the Drake Passage and the crossing to Antarctica.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLywKK_xqt73ocxTxDdQftROg2UHvF9EFWEr7A5qTr1BEDpMge6cGlNkZ5v7javQlMp6hIuAGawYC3qSDh5x7PMVmKV15ZlBtiQXZ6pHy6onTJ4qMo8ca_oLyyhh-b_W4GoVr-jB25i3F/s1600-h/DSC04383.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLywKK_xqt73ocxTxDdQftROg2UHvF9EFWEr7A5qTr1BEDpMge6cGlNkZ5v7javQlMp6hIuAGawYC3qSDh5x7PMVmKV15ZlBtiQXZ6pHy6onTJ4qMo8ca_oLyyhh-b_W4GoVr-jB25i3F/s320/DSC04383.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417010714680267922" border="0" /></a>Weather so far is good, cloudy and windy, but no rain. The sea is calm. The ship is a lot bigger than the Soren Larsen, I’d say twice the length and with three masts instead of two. The cabins are also a lot bigger and the plus point is that we have a spare bunk so more room to spread out in. Sharing the cabin with Daniel, a Belgian from Leuven, and Nicolas, a Scot from Inverness. Seem like good guys. A good mix of people on board, well balanced between Dutch and English-speaking, with the odd German, Swiss and Spaniard thrown in for good measure. This morning we are having a series of briefings on safety and various aspects of the ship. We hit the Drake Passage at around midday – the pilot has just left the ship: we’re on our own...</span>
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<br />More pictures at: </span><span style="font-size:100%;">http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=142970&id=708350856&l=6d37a55c28</span>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-16291360993357006822009-11-27T04:20:00.000-08:002009-11-27T04:23:44.297-08:00Europa - TrackerI forgot to say: the boat's journey can be followed live at "logbook" section of http://www.barkeuropa.com/en/logbook/6-logbook_of_barque_europaHedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-52713742574782062422009-11-26T15:08:00.000-08:002010-01-02T08:26:39.936-08:00Tierra del Fuego<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy7EAqTT74zIf16PuJ5DOScw-VEhAnZP08LiSQsqJihs4h-G5eHxYwCpvI3SlkaLmYnBZzlQxrS-egPoh6Xlw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />All pictures of the day through <a href="http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=138589&id=708350856&saved#/album.php?aid=138532&id=708350856">here</a>. Antarctica pre-departure pics <a href="http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=138589&id=708350856&saved#/album.php?aid=138589&id=708350856">here</a>...<br /><br />A final full day on dry land ahead of the departure tomorrow afternoon. Well I say departure, but in reality we only board the boat tomorrow at 17h00. It turns out departure is not until the following day. I suspect we are being taught the fundamentals of tallship sailing, no bad thing at all!<br /><br />But more on the sailing front later! In the meantime, today I went to to the Tierra del Fuego national park. I joined an organised tour to do a trekking and canoe trip round the park. This was well worth it and gave me an excellent impression of the park and a good appreciation of the Beagle Channel as we walked along it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnO1mInSPs6DB8D-uefsydg-AdFqYYetEF923bpfwx53uyMgDaa9zjjLfNpU5nm9wR-wzyyUxlqrNePYrp6pnfM5oXTWW2Pqo3rqDzFoyX3rae_GKIiQ5wIk3Y3pCIRMgWDBqsklBeZbHk/s1600/DSC04332.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnO1mInSPs6DB8D-uefsydg-AdFqYYetEF923bpfwx53uyMgDaa9zjjLfNpU5nm9wR-wzyyUxlqrNePYrp6pnfM5oXTWW2Pqo3rqDzFoyX3rae_GKIiQ5wIk3Y3pCIRMgWDBqsklBeZbHk/s320/DSC04332.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408556897216017570" border="0" /></a>The views were simply stupendous. This was taken looking out over the channel towards the south and the snow capped mountains. The water was a bright and clear though at times choppy as a brisk breeze funnelled down the channel.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJVfnfkvdHn0FpxAzBeCbotHTL4hz8b81_hhDsWHuPiF4rjUm0W2Oz9Q2qF5Mi01NyYBK3ksYZkAhjNrixzIG8pNReKINNrpgPQW1VOYkC0uM8TMTPrTm8B3pweO1oJCySXRT8_vDCdby/s1600/DSC04351.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJVfnfkvdHn0FpxAzBeCbotHTL4hz8b81_hhDsWHuPiF4rjUm0W2Oz9Q2qF5Mi01NyYBK3ksYZkAhjNrixzIG8pNReKINNrpgPQW1VOYkC0uM8TMTPrTm8B3pweO1oJCySXRT8_vDCdby/s320/DSC04351.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408556909702838642" border="0" /></a>Here you can see me testing out some of my gear for Antarctica. I had the bare minimum of layers on - four - which were more than enough for this day. To this I can add another two so fingers crossed I should be toasty during the trip.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXA_kOR3CPvjeakXFL06g9Xxpskb3svoKFNN7z81iTwTTHjnWbnH2mu0ik55pdLx9pI7dJgdGH8dAMpy8bk_c1_gdu60dcoj_eLz7LRtr7vd65wL5mTCckYXFjgdUZU8jgJGXHjWZWN3OC/s1600/DSC04343.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXA_kOR3CPvjeakXFL06g9Xxpskb3svoKFNN7z81iTwTTHjnWbnH2mu0ik55pdLx9pI7dJgdGH8dAMpy8bk_c1_gdu60dcoj_eLz7LRtr7vd65wL5mTCckYXFjgdUZU8jgJGXHjWZWN3OC/s320/DSC04343.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408556905116564274" border="0" /></a>This shot is looking back east along the Channel, in the direction of Ushuaia and the path we will be taking out on Saturday morning. It seemed to be beckoning me every time I looked across in that direction. Our guides gave us a good description of the fauna and flora of the park, and some of the history of the indigenous peoples, the Yamana tribe. They populated this area for over 10,000 years but were wiped out in the space of a few decades following the arrival of the Europeans, their diseases and "clearance" programmes. It was interesting to learn how the first arrivals interacted - in a positive way - with the indigenous populations to learn about berries they could use for medicinal purposes, notably ones providing them with vitamin C after the long trip!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3EzxnyTFLHjGiOiwnIhGzbBc5Ks9YvWkWlTAvdIUqeB5L-k7mjxuI6cFYNhjhORrQV3b7K_2ZEnddjTZWJE5ItRhLDJIgTYllCLW8189H9LmkoIrvg-dQuuFk740qaIDDsCeLJVQ1k9d2/s1600/DSC04360.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3EzxnyTFLHjGiOiwnIhGzbBc5Ks9YvWkWlTAvdIUqeB5L-k7mjxuI6cFYNhjhORrQV3b7K_2ZEnddjTZWJE5ItRhLDJIgTYllCLW8189H9LmkoIrvg-dQuuFk740qaIDDsCeLJVQ1k9d2/s320/DSC04360.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408556916091895698" border="0" /></a>Later on in the afternoon, after a big lunch and several glasses of wine to prepare, we went on a short canoe trip. Not on the channel itself, but on some of the small lakes and rivers flowing into it. Thank god it wasn't the channel is all I can say, it was hard enough paddling against the stiff breeze on the lake! But good fun. This photo was taken at the end of the trip - note how far we have come from BA - over 3000km!<br /><br />Now my attention is turning to departure. This evening I have been pouring over maps with other travellers in the B&B, one of whom is also going to Antarctica. She however, is going on a modern ship, but is doing mountaneering down there. Pretty good stuff! I also had to buy some last minute materials, with still more to do tomorrow morning!<br /><br />I'll be getting on the boat at 17h00 tomorrow afternoon but we won't be leaving until Saturday morning. This is likely to be my last post on here until 18 December. However, the blog will still be active as I'll be able to send emails to my friends Kris and Colin who have very kindly agreed to post them here. I'm trusting them to be on their best behaviour and not post too many football related stories or other non-relevant materials! Right guys? Thanks again!<br /><br />So, wish me a fair wind and forgiving seas! For those I have promised postcards and other things too, I shall be endeavouring to remember them all! Antarctica here I come.<br /><br />Signing off from Ushuaia - 26 November 2009, 23h30Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-78331528021297574602009-11-25T17:05:00.001-08:002010-01-02T08:26:39.938-08:00UshuaiaHere I am then, El Fin del Mundo (TM), otherwise known as Ushuaia, right down at the bottom of the South America. The end of my overland trip and the start of the sailing, as of Friday. In the meantime, still a lot to do in Ushuaia and the surrounding <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isla_Grande_de_Tierra_del_Fuego">Tierra del Fuego</a>. As ever, more photos can be seen <a href="http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=138332&id=708350856&l=bbdb222155">here</a>.<br /><br />I got here this lunchtime after a relatively quick flight down from El Cal. Coming in to land was an experience as we seemed to descend through unremitting cloud cover - it stayed "grey" outside for so long I was beginning to wonder if Ushuaia was actually down there. But suddenly, the clouds broke and we were coming in over the Beagle Channel, heading west in to the town. And by god, what a grey and choppy sea it looked - and this is the Beagle Channel! "Gulp" might be the best way to describe my reaction... Perhaps I needed to reconsider and take a boat like this one:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-Ci6X5h89hvcHPbEUvUErcBMHIBjuw4txJUbkFrryMiiH0aa_6eal8shsLhhpXQO4i4nSizCbu5Kck00KzJgxGOKJ5pE41e-TM_v33JYqcVJsIG9j0G5F-7sJRSzAls5YihXQam6TS2e/s1600/DSC04308.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-Ci6X5h89hvcHPbEUvUErcBMHIBjuw4txJUbkFrryMiiH0aa_6eal8shsLhhpXQO4i4nSizCbu5Kck00KzJgxGOKJ5pE41e-TM_v33JYqcVJsIG9j0G5F-7sJRSzAls5YihXQam6TS2e/s320/DSC04308.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408213857968345890" border="0" /></a>Perhaps this rust bucket sitting in the front of the harbour in Ushuaia was a potent warning, left to all travellers considering venturing out of its safety...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivTgynTurM6qDcgZx5_bHwsWnC-XxBEunQmkiNnK6IRN1fxTilQt8MixH0MgLpw4xS_qtrF8bOcCWbNODlEF60kDDlRECRX4Dt1Q5DuoaUI5CedkNJGi2swU2k0HaSPslcvmiDG4cOUgRG/s1600/DSC04312.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivTgynTurM6qDcgZx5_bHwsWnC-XxBEunQmkiNnK6IRN1fxTilQt8MixH0MgLpw4xS_qtrF8bOcCWbNODlEF60kDDlRECRX4Dt1Q5DuoaUI5CedkNJGi2swU2k0HaSPslcvmiDG4cOUgRG/s320/DSC04312.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408213874341301282" border="0" /></a>Or perhaps it was just a case of Latin laziness leaving the thing to rust there in such public view?? Who knows, and enough of my easy cliches :) Of course, the boat, the one I have travelled all this way to join was also there in the harbour. Sitting rather bizarrely and perhaps uncomfortably between the large cruise ship and what I think might be icebreakers. But clearly she wins on the elegance front, don't you think:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkNpsBKrOoQ_2E-nptDgbBbKe0p4ta0aQ7Mv6nXLPuO2iMO2zBQxO-N1hMLwuJq37EdYAIcSksg_NKy6xFVim3FpcwRYg49SBydYAaTTgJWl5TPNa7_Woox0bGREV2JZWicKJTMIHJ95zj/s1600/DSC04309.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkNpsBKrOoQ_2E-nptDgbBbKe0p4ta0aQ7Mv6nXLPuO2iMO2zBQxO-N1hMLwuJq37EdYAIcSksg_NKy6xFVim3FpcwRYg49SBydYAaTTgJWl5TPNa7_Woox0bGREV2JZWicKJTMIHJ95zj/s320/DSC04309.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408213866023618370" border="0" /></a>All the Eurocrats and assorted Brussels coterie should be pleased to note the EU Flag proudly fluttering - if that's the right word to describe it in a "stiff breeze" - from the top of the mast.<br />Unfortunately I couldn't get closer to the boat as you have to get in via the port authorities and I didn't have the official embarcation letter with me. But well, enough time for that on Friday.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahJ8L1faEjQXvDZumNX_ifdVgTyv2XbEr_fbb0I4f9_EfnaRORD4yIo6gEsFeZF4ZMzKOP8fzr-Q8SGa6-8ZMKSZGHqWAteGL2FwNvYocUNWpWj65o_8TneoruI8wHrZTMzbvED3VBnen/s1600/DSC04327.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahJ8L1faEjQXvDZumNX_ifdVgTyv2XbEr_fbb0I4f9_EfnaRORD4yIo6gEsFeZF4ZMzKOP8fzr-Q8SGa6-8ZMKSZGHqWAteGL2FwNvYocUNWpWj65o_8TneoruI8wHrZTMzbvED3VBnen/s320/DSC04327.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408213887936356610" border="0" /></a> So this is Ushuaia. Looking out over the Beagle Channel, looking to the east and the direction I think we'll sail on Friday evening. In the afternoon I took some time to walk up the foothills of the town to take these pictures. The town is surrounded to the north by mountains, all snow capped but these pictures are looking south. I guess in the broad direction of Cape Horn.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwr_ThgmIGmrqNVjD2HMMni7C9ZKWuYurvxlJOiqerMYCYmmUeLg2yexFPmCr6-gTXZzMkrsQUbBnzN517FTW3i80BEZ-AOStQGQL3F1VAaoqqIEDX0Lzvd2H5_rBXcHWcT-c9axjKFXXN/s1600/DSC04319.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwr_ThgmIGmrqNVjD2HMMni7C9ZKWuYurvxlJOiqerMYCYmmUeLg2yexFPmCr6-gTXZzMkrsQUbBnzN517FTW3i80BEZ-AOStQGQL3F1VAaoqqIEDX0Lzvd2H5_rBXcHWcT-c9axjKFXXN/s320/DSC04319.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408213877757560338" border="0" /></a> The pictures I took of the mountains immediately behind Ushuaia didn't come out, my attempts at fancy photography mixing sun, clouds and mountains clearly, and patently, came to nothing. I'm staying in a great little B&B, just up the hill from the main town. I have a lovely room in the loft with a view out over the channel, reminding me just how choppy it looks!<br /><br />Now I'm down in the lounge writing this and chatting to a Dutch couple who are also in the B&B. It would appear that most of Holland is in Ushuaia - the airport was full of Dutch people and I have heard lots of Dutch in town. This got me thinking about the boat, it's Dutch after all. Are they all coming on the it I mused? Will I be the only non-Dutchie? Will they take their revenge on the sole Englishman abroad for wrongs of the past? Probably not, but hey, one can never know... :)<br /><br />And so to tomorrow, my last full day on dry land before the grand depart. I have decided to keep up my fitness push and signed up to a trek AND canoe outting in the Tierra del Fuego national park. It's all day long. Should prepare me just nicely for the trip. On that point, I'm off to sort out my gear and peruse the maps I bought today: one of the Drake Passage and the other of Antarctica (helpfully with all the famous shipwrecks - nothing like a positive outlook!). I shall photograph them and add them to the blog when time permits.Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-964830539514682182009-11-24T13:18:00.001-08:002010-01-02T08:26:39.941-08:00Perito Moreno Glacier<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwedVTS_Z7_DRUP8p9pbthY0QjpW6prQncVDD2xfZX_ace6EWaHNTUMRPoPLdWY2hWDDBRQ8e5yDJPyNSb8OA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />All photos can be accessed <a href="http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=138144&id=708350856&l=27f3a4a760">here</a> ...<span></span><br /><br />The awe-inspiring <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perito_moreno">Perito Moreno</a> glacier. The reason for my trip to El Calafate, with all due respect to the treasures nearby like the flamingos... I went on a full day trip today, involving a 6am start but it was well worth it. On the journey over, I realised how far I actually cycled yesterday - a cool 20km round trip. I mean, don't laugh, up hill and down dale, with gales in my face... No wonder I was knackered (if you're wondering how I know the distance I spied a sign on the way back indicating 10km to El Cal just at the point where the infamous "uphill" sign was!) Anyway I digress:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOOae47zkgQMnGZXWbfgtLGQZLPAM_yMzTMwKgAPnDvlOhGtAKeasn4YTqSzWKauvPLmRt8_ThGHgMJh0uPa08l8L3umNXaSFb4vMsJwwS2psZJklX9VOgrG-7CHjbJmUco8Xw1HbPiAm/s1600/DSC04224.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOOae47zkgQMnGZXWbfgtLGQZLPAM_yMzTMwKgAPnDvlOhGtAKeasn4YTqSzWKauvPLmRt8_ThGHgMJh0uPa08l8L3umNXaSFb4vMsJwwS2psZJklX9VOgrG-7CHjbJmUco8Xw1HbPiAm/s320/DSC04224.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407784752716674626" border="0" /></a>After a couple of hours in the bus we arrived at the glacier. I don't think any photos really do it justice, it's very hard to capture the scale. I suspect this will be a recurring theme on this trip! The photo you see here is just ONE side of the glacier, the southern side. The northern side follows in a bit. Now what can I remember about the technical side: well the height of the glacier is around 60 meters with another 120 metres submerged under the water. Going back up the glacier the thickness of the ice grows to 800 metres.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaR1bbbs-KK7qFkzxO6fzgJ1q8gi0VGikJw238-IOQJZERwV6Zrc0ufOC9gW09rZPYPtMqZ1UIs2V9Oz_4ndEiN1n8oCvgpn8_O7wi0b0qFibGER4ivMpaQLieG66vioVwW-QOAvJWGlVg/s1600/DSC04227.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaR1bbbs-KK7qFkzxO6fzgJ1q8gi0VGikJw238-IOQJZERwV6Zrc0ufOC9gW09rZPYPtMqZ1UIs2V9Oz_4ndEiN1n8oCvgpn8_O7wi0b0qFibGER4ivMpaQLieG66vioVwW-QOAvJWGlVg/s320/DSC04227.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407784761294009282" border="0" /></a>Here is the start of the expedition, kitted out and all ready to go. Right, back to the technical stuff. We had an interesting explanation on how glaciers are formed (packed snow and pressure) and the age of the ice (in parts up to 300 years). It is one of the few glaciers which is actually stable, not in the sense that the others wobble about, but in the sense that it maintains its size - whilst growing and receeding according to the seasons. This glacier is naturally responsible for the Argentino Lake, carving out the valley as it advanced and receeded during the last Ice Age.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03d1WIHVVHnFt2LszsEW8CZB4siqinkzlwGCmy_kDOn30ueTYKPaBykOxSMhQob-UsJWb5UwY7lKYFzP_3DquI1tCIA5E8Rld7tHaeh_zM7av9gYJHBIZaWWV25IPons8oo42DXvYzyGt/s1600/DSC04231.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03d1WIHVVHnFt2LszsEW8CZB4siqinkzlwGCmy_kDOn30ueTYKPaBykOxSMhQob-UsJWb5UwY7lKYFzP_3DquI1tCIA5E8Rld7tHaeh_zM7av9gYJHBIZaWWV25IPons8oo42DXvYzyGt/s320/DSC04231.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407784763647041634" border="0" /></a>Yep, its big. The glacier, not me. There was quite a lot of ice falling off the front of the glacier, enormous booming cracking sounds and then the tell-tale waves rolling out across the lake. Let's hope Europa is always moored head on in Antartica...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs85RD6CJZ8st9b51TwHLd18J_8_HWcKG2wMDzQ8un-gG3cWAqwX1dmT5LAS5ch4rt4fMe-3on50ea0Vt5SO4Xexi9HFxLgekbPqUZ6IseMyZBfPct_rq3I72AzV37o3LrkCS26qbAE52F/s1600/DSC04235.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs85RD6CJZ8st9b51TwHLd18J_8_HWcKG2wMDzQ8un-gG3cWAqwX1dmT5LAS5ch4rt4fMe-3on50ea0Vt5SO4Xexi9HFxLgekbPqUZ6IseMyZBfPct_rq3I72AzV37o3LrkCS26qbAE52F/s320/DSC04235.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407784772893861474" border="0" /></a>Ok, so then the fun bit, climbing over the ice! However, I nearly didn't get that far as they had problems fitting the crampons to my new boots. Jeez, I would have had issues with Canada (the shoes' origin) forever if that had prevented my little jaunt. But a bit of pushing did the trick and I soon caught up with the group to be given a how-to-walk in crampons talk. Not to be ignored, certainly when I had the potential for achilles issues front of mind... And then we were off, walking up the glacier. It was amazing, in a very small way I could see the attraction of this stuff on a broader scale. The photo above was taken at one of our first stop off points, although Sony can't do justice to the blues in this ice pool. We were able to eat/drink thin slivers of ice which had formed on the pool last night. That was great, and more on-the-rocks was soon to follow...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVeb-Xgn4seiI5E2kPErc1_3h0FOz6YycmG3FK7Ua4oT3tF54vvvh1WaeC1AdfkmKk1xiyGB8cZHnYAJql9MnZD5VTNvrg-GpJwvZ7ivDRJz94_xHc9jLai8DRsacln0l7ZNhlSsLfO7i/s1600/DSC04236.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVeb-Xgn4seiI5E2kPErc1_3h0FOz6YycmG3FK7Ua4oT3tF54vvvh1WaeC1AdfkmKk1xiyGB8cZHnYAJql9MnZD5VTNvrg-GpJwvZ7ivDRJz94_xHc9jLai8DRsacln0l7ZNhlSsLfO7i/s320/DSC04236.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407784779277863810" border="0" /></a>These are a couple of photos of the path we were taking. We were very lucky as a group as we were the first up there in the day so we had the place to ourselves. I noticed later that there were long lines of people trekking over the glacier, a situation we managed to avoid. The photo below was the steepest climb we had to do:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB2SyM47IcSueNVQbhKh3BUv8ALbObPmAvpJ1auuk9RVDuEqXJZOT30m1rvj68UJ-XE9e9lm38qcY1nfAwUPy7QTdBX5PiNvOR6ryD39x3kQrAsiK7fm1rM3WDKM_WoOgue_bI85W3hueY/s1600/DSC04240.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB2SyM47IcSueNVQbhKh3BUv8ALbObPmAvpJ1auuk9RVDuEqXJZOT30m1rvj68UJ-XE9e9lm38qcY1nfAwUPy7QTdBX5PiNvOR6ryD39x3kQrAsiK7fm1rM3WDKM_WoOgue_bI85W3hueY/s320/DSC04240.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407792834726896226" border="0" /></a>But one I survived, and was able to enjoy the view looking up the glacier as one of my fellow hikers, Greg from Australia, took this picture. He was quite a character, a former investment banker working for Kleinwort Benson back in the 1980s-1990s in Australia. He had lots of colourful stories of dealings with London. Plus ca change.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYyLwVV009IjixhIUZWpfhOoHXn_px1A8UInHRrGYK2TzIh-t5zIvTJG8JkN-CqmYz7G_U-U6kJsg52Ra2QmZPspzR8ISbn5Fx1SsZLxd59fRt1x6F8JqYIL_YeRYJ4mEopVj2GnPHBVm/s1600/DSC04248.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYyLwVV009IjixhIUZWpfhOoHXn_px1A8UInHRrGYK2TzIh-t5zIvTJG8JkN-CqmYz7G_U-U6kJsg52Ra2QmZPspzR8ISbn5Fx1SsZLxd59fRt1x6F8JqYIL_YeRYJ4mEopVj2GnPHBVm/s320/DSC04248.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407792845309342258" border="0" /></a>So we walked around the glacier for around 90 minutes. It was a great experience, the feel of the ice, the sensation of walking on crampons, crossing little crevasses (Mark - I see what you mean about these things ahead of your running trip - I looked down one and couldn't see any bottom, just a blue bottomless pit...), hearing little rivers running under the ice (and moving quickly on), understanding what makes the ice look blue (apparently its down to the frequency of the colour blue, it's the only one which ice reflects....)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiutbq091lLigQjCCmEUjIDuh51LSuh3m326Hk7qBGGeIG24L87A2y4HqRL9lbByTBAbERpQcOOh7wtVVPQB55Ph9r9_Z5ZNQT2JrMgUQVdS6TJSLeLCOT3D9RxMb4rOtMScPiJzqkU9zvs/s1600/DSC04255.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiutbq091lLigQjCCmEUjIDuh51LSuh3m326Hk7qBGGeIG24L87A2y4HqRL9lbByTBAbERpQcOOh7wtVVPQB55Ph9r9_Z5ZNQT2JrMgUQVdS6TJSLeLCOT3D9RxMb4rOtMScPiJzqkU9zvs/s320/DSC04255.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407792845973441474" border="0" /></a>And then we discovered another colour ice reflects - a kind of amber, warm glow. Oh hang on, no that was the whisky on the rocks we enjoyed at the end of the hike. I'm not normally a big whisky fan, but I must say this one tasted damm good - it must have been the fresh glacier ice...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLn7T_823EpeJAH8KopIXs84NcMVcw3fE6eGfXerZKXUmbJX6x0uJptW7uHNtscOa_CG-tW-SJDlraor_dacVyDebUXZNwfm4guzBLwnMlNlR9T-O6SBOZ5kx13RPgKrOTJSDD_IkFy5zw/s1600/DSC04272.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLn7T_823EpeJAH8KopIXs84NcMVcw3fE6eGfXerZKXUmbJX6x0uJptW7uHNtscOa_CG-tW-SJDlraor_dacVyDebUXZNwfm4guzBLwnMlNlR9T-O6SBOZ5kx13RPgKrOTJSDD_IkFy5zw/s320/DSC04272.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407792858514484178" border="0" /></a>Back on firm land, we enjoyed our packed lunches and the views. Every minute the glacier seemed to subtly change in appearance, as the light changed with the passing of these high clouds in front of the sun. It was spectacular and something I tried to capture in these two photos.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy8Dv4h0a0WS1JUY-mB_QQdNb4WE1yMlD38Uh03ltMO0O2INshHJMDyLF1c6myKup3FMWJh_r0kyeAPbfhkQB9ubkwMFGGVJtJZPvJSLz6pxX1Z4_3_sQh_FVGmcBh3g2cj7Q_TwbgG0R_/s1600/DSC04274.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy8Dv4h0a0WS1JUY-mB_QQdNb4WE1yMlD38Uh03ltMO0O2INshHJMDyLF1c6myKup3FMWJh_r0kyeAPbfhkQB9ubkwMFGGVJtJZPvJSLz6pxX1Z4_3_sQh_FVGmcBh3g2cj7Q_TwbgG0R_/s320/DSC04274.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407792859416239938" border="0" /></a><br />This second was taken from the boat as we travelled along the edge of the southern side of the glacier heading round to the northern side and the "ruptura". I took this video as we rounded the corner:<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyq2uj_ioFeAfJhsUK6yJCRb-DKTyEB7LMCKYlYvxDk2Z5oimfPRNHiW5tkR7r9GiW3gatLGFCYTX98d3Y' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />Anyway, back to the ruptura. Essentially what happens is the glacier meets land at a point where the lake is L-shape in form. When the glacier meets the land it can completely block off one side of the lake from the other, leading to the water levels on the southern side to steadily grow higher and higher. Eventually, and the increase in water levels can reach 20 meters, the pressure becomes too great and the water breaks through the glacier - hence the name "ruptura". They say this event can be heard many miles away, as far as El Cal itself (75km) and it wouldn't surprise me - the booming sounds of relatively small pieces of ice falling off were loud enough in themselves!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhD2mEd1r_f6lgqxDV5IjS0jhBoNXiKarwRWKoDO6OwwwylhPyaQ5pJQzblXYYHlC2kG61U6_1_3oFeIt4WNyxQ-UcE4FNoTmkbyio00ZRe3xlMobCd9ezgK71IQNH1C-ysP_mBZcILNuV/s1600/DSC04299.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhD2mEd1r_f6lgqxDV5IjS0jhBoNXiKarwRWKoDO6OwwwylhPyaQ5pJQzblXYYHlC2kG61U6_1_3oFeIt4WNyxQ-UcE4FNoTmkbyio00ZRe3xlMobCd9ezgK71IQNH1C-ysP_mBZcILNuV/s320/DSC04299.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407794749226606146" border="0" /></a>While the ice has reached land now, the water has already found a tunnel through so there is no build up at the moment as the photo below shows. The big hole below my hand is where the ice collapsed on this tunnel - unfortunately not while we were at this viewing point!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4keHVaohPHsXTTBlog6pmDPXXPrRZ5pBN2oa4VMx2FXRku_sYqJ7p4LL074CQ9s3XHsPtlXTNapn71J2DzN9T0lN1_Locl1wz5AlgPFRyu5xPSAfvxTdUOQtjSDhhrAutd7cDDG-LUha3/s1600/DSC04298.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4keHVaohPHsXTTBlog6pmDPXXPrRZ5pBN2oa4VMx2FXRku_sYqJ7p4LL074CQ9s3XHsPtlXTNapn71J2DzN9T0lN1_Locl1wz5AlgPFRyu5xPSAfvxTdUOQtjSDhhrAutd7cDDG-LUha3/s320/DSC04298.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407794747977227506" border="0" /></a>So El Cal draws to a close. I'm going to treat myself to Argentine steak this evening, I have been trying not to have them every day, I mean that would be too much, wouldn't it?? Tomorrow I fly to Ushuaia, the last stop for now in Argentina and where I'll join Europa on Friday....Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-88014907777299284072009-11-23T12:34:00.000-08:002010-01-02T08:26:39.944-08:00El Calafate Cycling<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyX6pLxG2aCPQ2FARuXiXP-w05D2suWj9oJeYPFjOMmkL8S48Y1jOEBFvAKs_OUW19EXQqomf3QBr68vgm5LA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />I cycled the best part of five hours - yes five hours - to get to a view like this today! And it was well worth it, the landscape is incredible, and I guess I'm still in the "foothills" of the experience to put it one way. So rewind five hours and I'm back in El Calafate renting out a mountain bike. Iwas told there were essentially two ways to go, east or west along <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argentino_Lake">Argentino Lake</a>.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwxuTNjNsgxiNhdBXxsGEc47YC1rt-Un4Rsd7-zkGEVgwo68umEUgjtgbR4ewiUEAQ0O24WvWwL-TUBT4FROA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />I opted to go East first and came across a nature reserve which was well worth seeing for the somewhat surprising sight of flamingos.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkL_FvKLLhxPSlO3If_GtnZgT2neHDe9YSIwmWtR589zfVDqnZuCXAT90w6-6Jdtawt9d8rEbMREJwM0Wq6iwODGJQxZVqw2LczcxtjKFyh2nJF1EbFvapA8Azu-P51G54q_qrXudmQNR/s1600/DSC04165.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkL_FvKLLhxPSlO3If_GtnZgT2neHDe9YSIwmWtR589zfVDqnZuCXAT90w6-6Jdtawt9d8rEbMREJwM0Wq6iwODGJQxZVqw2LczcxtjKFyh2nJF1EbFvapA8Azu-P51G54q_qrXudmQNR/s320/DSC04165.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407402323208504210" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcdEFm95vhkP-eOgwEJZsJMlYL_12kXc9cr4A7WI8fP9X_mdwVsrEXsI2amXxDcor9pZvkrYfAXVoGRenfv1ur1fO_XkQ8LQ51xFnuFZuV_oMnGF1_Z3Z4AHctRGH6NduJK4mTpNWX-Sv/s1600/DSC04173.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcdEFm95vhkP-eOgwEJZsJMlYL_12kXc9cr4A7WI8fP9X_mdwVsrEXsI2amXxDcor9pZvkrYfAXVoGRenfv1ur1fO_XkQ8LQ51xFnuFZuV_oMnGF1_Z3Z4AHctRGH6NduJK4mTpNWX-Sv/s320/DSC04173.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407405462590063634" border="0" /></a><br />It was a great setting, nestled next to the lake and with the snow topped peaks in the background. I had a good look around, nearly getting stuck in the bog several times over... Clearly the flamingos et al must have looked on thinking what a crazy tourist.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dymS8HA1v5ia-rOPiWa2nVA645xvK6kP3ge05PaxwtbNGw35MfN_07CtOfyd1HK3kazkg0lneVwReA8NW4XKg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />Saying that the birds soon had other things to contend with as suddenly one of the many wild dogs here swam out to one of the islands and had a go at the nests. Cue lots of squawking and general mayhem... After that I decided to leave the wildlife to their own devices and headed further down the coast.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-O6w0g-OWDDGtqzwRag9LuiOd_xEag9NvhscsNc7jB-TuBtTDZCUG84jekjjTYZD5RQJCfeOJyGkQV_606Vj-jc8BiPDe6qLieQCIKfR0h2V_z39_78cQOOLZ9L0-yy0jpg1VgLGz-g7J/s1600/DSC04168.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-O6w0g-OWDDGtqzwRag9LuiOd_xEag9NvhscsNc7jB-TuBtTDZCUG84jekjjTYZD5RQJCfeOJyGkQV_606Vj-jc8BiPDe6qLieQCIKfR0h2V_z39_78cQOOLZ9L0-yy0jpg1VgLGz-g7J/s320/DSC04168.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407402331715069042" border="0" /></a><br />As you can see, it was a wonderful day, barely a cloud in the sky and not too cold, although there was a sharp breeze. Weather like this for the rest of the trip will do just nicely. I stopped for part 1 of a packed lunch somewhere around here. I had come to the end of the road - of sorts - and my attempts at cycling on the beach had literally ploughed to halt. And I started thinking of where to go next.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2WLTb38WBnaGYQChcC-RWuTEW3TzQB49IPzNxRyex4DT8mkg-P0J7mUPwvL-wr8vJezZvZA2hYgnRySPXaUPDeTqJ7cNPtIgZJtIfmtb5TPG3PWqu7fzy9vqW0Jmd6SbLirakBrChMj1/s1600/DSC04167.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2WLTb38WBnaGYQChcC-RWuTEW3TzQB49IPzNxRyex4DT8mkg-P0J7mUPwvL-wr8vJezZvZA2hYgnRySPXaUPDeTqJ7cNPtIgZJtIfmtb5TPG3PWqu7fzy9vqW0Jmd6SbLirakBrChMj1/s320/DSC04167.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407402329612748466" border="0" /></a><br />Clearly there was a lot more to see and I decided to head off west, round the other side of town to see if I could get a clearer view of the snow topped peaks given that they were slightly blocked by the hills on the other side of El Calafate. Heading back that way, I had one of those "small world" experiences when I got chatting to two Dutch women. When I mentioned that I was going on the Dutch boat Europa one of the women told me that her nephew's girlfriend is on the ship, working as one of the permanent crew! How funny I said, and asked her what the girl's name was so I could mention it when I'm on board the Europa... Great idea, said the lady until she realised she couldn't remember the girl's name! In the end, I got a little note - in Dutch - to hand round the permanent crew! Here they are:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcZBV7SUEbUnHG03z9HLyxWoIO5PkfsI_MQMFrGcG5HL1Z5-1UXyom6JaRRFiJ2yKGk1rCdZEXegUVx3UM_NVHHSpjbivozLbFdeRvb__vO3Vmz_vvpGJVoo9n_mFNwXJcGhuvLollsAo/s1600/DSC04182.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcZBV7SUEbUnHG03z9HLyxWoIO5PkfsI_MQMFrGcG5HL1Z5-1UXyom6JaRRFiJ2yKGk1rCdZEXegUVx3UM_NVHHSpjbivozLbFdeRvb__vO3Vmz_vvpGJVoo9n_mFNwXJcGhuvLollsAo/s320/DSC04182.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407405485098279778" border="0" /></a><br />They also took a photo of me on the bike to prove to any doubters that this little cycling trip did indeed take place!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk7RoAdHUiB_7UGs7EQ_IhQ8mWZIsrYTma7daH23FNQdGPlTBeL6NpvJC8uZgrQ2nDwi9KOl-WCEBufqiqpXpvpTPHIrx_ALixcrqQ1PhOJ-T5LiajA-H26ElgetIRARbI429MT4EP32sb/s1600/DSC04181.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk7RoAdHUiB_7UGs7EQ_IhQ8mWZIsrYTma7daH23FNQdGPlTBeL6NpvJC8uZgrQ2nDwi9KOl-WCEBufqiqpXpvpTPHIrx_ALixcrqQ1PhOJ-T5LiajA-H26ElgetIRARbI429MT4EP32sb/s320/DSC04181.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407405479472870114" border="0" /></a><br />So after lunch part 2, this time on the western side of El Calafate I decided to strike out, thinking that just over the little hill on the edge of the town I would find a perfect viewing spot. How naive. This was clearly a case of there always being another "little" hill to overcome to get to the objective. And throw in a nice westerly breeze and it was tough going. But eventually, I thought voila, I'm there as a summit of sorts seemed within my grasp.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHsr-q2a38AI8fmlyrMltJzvqL-L3aAMztqtz0N6XRUIEhm5Bz9hqW-02xRzV4NmORQ590CsT51IdamV3yBD-Yl0gpoATGxKDiYnfXJAN01e3OpbWg__88nXN7FhOs5tgdPD1sJIMKGYA3/s1600/DSC04193.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHsr-q2a38AI8fmlyrMltJzvqL-L3aAMztqtz0N6XRUIEhm5Bz9hqW-02xRzV4NmORQ590CsT51IdamV3yBD-Yl0gpoATGxKDiYnfXJAN01e3OpbWg__88nXN7FhOs5tgdPD1sJIMKGYA3/s320/DSC04193.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407409066936697650" border="0" /></a><br />Not quite. It was another few kilometres along the rather desolate road, but beautiful and vast landscape.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VC7N-7AKPz2NZWissos86TVNyRfiWNZ0NMkM81NGKzSw91_J4cMJYSS45f8PcG3wpoUDqnlaZYL2gCpEcJ3JNBWLDgbLa-ACxprmxQWfqjL9L6ZHWWisZ8KWydkasu5PzNWw2u9m6WX7/s1600/DSC04186.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VC7N-7AKPz2NZWissos86TVNyRfiWNZ0NMkM81NGKzSw91_J4cMJYSS45f8PcG3wpoUDqnlaZYL2gCpEcJ3JNBWLDgbLa-ACxprmxQWfqjL9L6ZHWWisZ8KWydkasu5PzNWw2u9m6WX7/s320/DSC04186.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407409063581436706" border="0" /></a><br />Not a soul in sight, except for a few fellow cyclists (I temporarily lost my aversion to cyclists due to their pavement abuse in Brussels and joined in a chirpy "hola") and the occasional bus.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCVlLBPLYxpHAqnF6ocWl-1oVouBtZ-5sL-8MiG5d6IF2-ba1ASc84OTV4dFS1J5jY3y2AZYoHZS-55amllXoDfVv0LmJlAsKRI-tqr5wbHbOYOEKCEX1uPPLIkMi2HDzDOhbEL8zJlD9J/s1600/DSC04211.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCVlLBPLYxpHAqnF6ocWl-1oVouBtZ-5sL-8MiG5d6IF2-ba1ASc84OTV4dFS1J5jY3y2AZYoHZS-55amllXoDfVv0LmJlAsKRI-tqr5wbHbOYOEKCEX1uPPLIkMi2HDzDOhbEL8zJlD9J/s320/DSC04211.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407409089735703826" border="0" /></a><br />But eventually I came round a corner, through another small pass and thankfully next to the road which seemed to continue forever across the plain in a way rather reminiscent of the fairy tale <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_and_the_Beanstalk">Jack and the Beanstalk</a> --<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj091jc-bpGu-mVotmv_38INt7QPxFv9CIbnI9PE-3NuG5cGvImBZC2eg6QLeC0eP4UJE4-4G2TKHiYAtoCjNIoGVpk-kpJZDlaBtGUjEF3On3RPB-1CXURAKfTByEJnw3Td87KkeRYa6ib/s1600/DSC04203.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj091jc-bpGu-mVotmv_38INt7QPxFv9CIbnI9PE-3NuG5cGvImBZC2eg6QLeC0eP4UJE4-4G2TKHiYAtoCjNIoGVpk-kpJZDlaBtGUjEF3On3RPB-1CXURAKfTByEJnw3Td87KkeRYa6ib/s320/DSC04203.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407409079387923842" border="0" /></a><br />-- I had finally made it to a proper viewing point. Or at least one that satisfied me and allowed me to avoid heading off into the sunset along this road...!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjphh4PqzSn5YRmZyNBEVzx_in9MR3wmnpK-APHJ3acK_7F-25sRuEhjCMb4FSe797sVfQ1-Ar2LDSuRiKKMBepfxj5MJRhqRUwbsASzrSLgz1_pIc0kih4wlIMtqMkuIVKgLIPGA2sB8Xa/s1600/DSC04199.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjphh4PqzSn5YRmZyNBEVzx_in9MR3wmnpK-APHJ3acK_7F-25sRuEhjCMb4FSe797sVfQ1-Ar2LDSuRiKKMBepfxj5MJRhqRUwbsASzrSLgz1_pIc0kih4wlIMtqMkuIVKgLIPGA2sB8Xa/s320/DSC04199.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407409074636399346" border="0" /></a><br />It was an amazing view and I took some to take it all in and catch my breath... the latter clearly being the most important thing given my apparent lack of conditioning...! Now there was only the small point of the trip back. Thankfully I had a tailwind, but there is still nothing quite as depressing and morale sapping as seeing this sign in front of you having cycled the best part of a km across a barren plain<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF8M_RJP9eoSBevtlwn3uY_x3yGIdCECzQSbE-M6DT2p-SV7dKLsonhkBmoXvAeXujxyh19kT68QJLM__feBQiKi8JxHcXtA256Wh2-1CdsO0d7kQWTOHugikVZzJttv5c1RbDTDcXUedP/s1600/DSC04214.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF8M_RJP9eoSBevtlwn3uY_x3yGIdCECzQSbE-M6DT2p-SV7dKLsonhkBmoXvAeXujxyh19kT68QJLM__feBQiKi8JxHcXtA256Wh2-1CdsO0d7kQWTOHugikVZzJttv5c1RbDTDcXUedP/s320/DSC04214.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407409725242213138" border="0" /></a><br />But I did arrive safely back in El Calafate. No one had to come out and rescue me, no insurance cover was tested :) Since then I have been recuperating, I feel knackered, but thankfully tomorrow will be a nice, relaxing day. Mini trekking on the Perito Moreno. Should be a walk in the uhhm Park?Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-24556380100349222462009-11-22T18:14:00.000-08:002010-01-02T08:26:39.949-08:00Buenos AiresArrived here yesterday lunchtime and have spent my first day in Argentina, checking out some of Buenos Aires!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgJucQeSARNLOME9Bn5ysOD6bsCdzL25sm1rpfSchsS3IPfhw5sWiohVCkfnFIh_p8axXbY5EFv4kGUFSZnlNB9O0xTp9u7Uc09WbdbzBTfTCCkEUQPEun2XT-uP9t6OEbccL1364zcuY/s1600/DSC04126.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgJucQeSARNLOME9Bn5ysOD6bsCdzL25sm1rpfSchsS3IPfhw5sWiohVCkfnFIh_p8axXbY5EFv4kGUFSZnlNB9O0xTp9u7Uc09WbdbzBTfTCCkEUQPEun2XT-uP9t6OEbccL1364zcuY/s320/DSC04126.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407117783722856306" border="0" /></a>Needless to say, much more than a day, perhaps more than a few weeks could be devoted to this place, but I’m moving on again – heading off down to El Calafate this afternoon. First impressions: a big, crazy and eclectic city. I was fortunate to be staying relatively centrally on the Avenida de Mayo, between the Plaza de Mayor at one end and the Congress / Parliament at the other. The hotel I stayed in was once visited by the great Federico Garcia Lorca in the early 1930s when his play “Bodas de Sangre” was being performed at a theatre nearby.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8s6DHEeXSyUe-UqhFIFXDy3DLJpHDzWEiGl4zus-ReWfErYZ6f4sk8ZatMrR6TfzjeKl7JYjja_YhWz4-sdCUksHAiTxSDvX-5avbKc8JWe4OjmtqDg22VH6vsm_T7q2VnVFJbscn8ZTM/s1600/DSC04133.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8s6DHEeXSyUe-UqhFIFXDy3DLJpHDzWEiGl4zus-ReWfErYZ6f4sk8ZatMrR6TfzjeKl7JYjja_YhWz4-sdCUksHAiTxSDvX-5avbKc8JWe4OjmtqDg22VH6vsm_T7q2VnVFJbscn8ZTM/s320/DSC04133.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407119693876537234" border="0" /></a><br />As one would expect, Avenida de Mayo is a great place to be located for a first impression of the city as it seems to reflect many elements of its history: inspired by Haussmann style visions of wide boulevards and beautiful architecture from the late 19th century there are many places which do indeed live up to that expectation. But alongside that, much of it betrays signs of a faded glorious past, a sort of worn and torn Champs Elysees. Clearly this gives the area an edge and a certain charm.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4J19QiyQRCIfnfmL7cF5xkhlC62INvd8qi2pLKcgfBfMFHZXkk1pZKPK1a9YPgkq8Ur42IinKD-WR9jzaeghxsKt5R7x_D0rZQDBSYAQWslNUH3UNl8QiiqVWF8yZA7e6avQYTj04OF8W/s1600/DSC04081.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4J19QiyQRCIfnfmL7cF5xkhlC62INvd8qi2pLKcgfBfMFHZXkk1pZKPK1a9YPgkq8Ur42IinKD-WR9jzaeghxsKt5R7x_D0rZQDBSYAQWslNUH3UNl8QiiqVWF8yZA7e6avQYTj04OF8W/s320/DSC04081.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407118928440011810" border="0" /></a><br />I had time yesterday afternoon to check out the Plaza de Mayo.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyN4lIkOiJB8wpYKHEeP07X1posybkDs74Gka6TjB_FkA0-jNnoLfhX2L6R78k5IHqlbwExAMPDvSv3B_nB5muFPDxSZgsOsvKhzzucKV5912msoNdyVPg4rt8_0wN_kpUyG5bBEjcgKwz/s1600/DSC04082.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyN4lIkOiJB8wpYKHEeP07X1posybkDs74Gka6TjB_FkA0-jNnoLfhX2L6R78k5IHqlbwExAMPDvSv3B_nB5muFPDxSZgsOsvKhzzucKV5912msoNdyVPg4rt8_0wN_kpUyG5bBEjcgKwz/s320/DSC04082.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407123611215002210" border="0" /></a>Strangely, but perhaps fittingly, I managed to arrive during two days when spring seemed to be on pause: grey skies and rain dominated much of my first afternoon and, though it was mild, some of my Antarctica gear made an appearance…A return on investment already!!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzIrjzQ4fzlhteTNnHkUC1ALW5j01kJPB_Wqk-1B3_VDgSgUhFi-tYyCtAAH5dkxkh1JhnX9ezL3t6YB7-lipkwmPDI_Yc_X-uABVlk5S-0WyqQGiUcjzJLlhD7PJPigRAUjmXR3sNbLuC/s1600/DSC04129.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzIrjzQ4fzlhteTNnHkUC1ALW5j01kJPB_Wqk-1B3_VDgSgUhFi-tYyCtAAH5dkxkh1JhnX9ezL3t6YB7-lipkwmPDI_Yc_X-uABVlk5S-0WyqQGiUcjzJLlhD7PJPigRAUjmXR3sNbLuC/s320/DSC04129.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407126123256915506" border="0" /></a>I had wanted to do an Evita Peron tour but BA London being slow conspired against my plans and I missed it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdDnGSuUOdDSh3Tezxo2FfaKSa43NFqpnC0gOhSN8ejcG7Fbi2XXtbb7UywjYBImQnVPqGJRlUt9Zpj9wu0VOyx_qYzMdK7Xs4eV7KQfP8BxG7hrwYfrz59hrLmZoEMEyXWR4H1gcJ-QT/s1600/DSC04159.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdDnGSuUOdDSh3Tezxo2FfaKSa43NFqpnC0gOhSN8ejcG7Fbi2XXtbb7UywjYBImQnVPqGJRlUt9Zpj9wu0VOyx_qYzMdK7Xs4eV7KQfP8BxG7hrwYfrz59hrLmZoEMEyXWR4H1gcJ-QT/s320/DSC04159.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408045122706417202" border="0" /></a>However, it turned out to be something of a blessing as I discovered that the Casa Rosada – the Presidential residence – was open to the public to celebrate “20 November 1845”.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUjsduNM6j-SnmwIJwGgQmsNePVe0OKXpA9VF8v2HNxGcEfA0-vFwP64VkFNoOczCkV426QyK9eCj0h3ivASWiY3vwwDNNIkfCoJpw5m96mlL8_1H8DKdQ-zA-9OlSV5NixuqBl0gsFJ_G/s1600/DSC04128.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUjsduNM6j-SnmwIJwGgQmsNePVe0OKXpA9VF8v2HNxGcEfA0-vFwP64VkFNoOczCkV426QyK9eCj0h3ivASWiY3vwwDNNIkfCoJpw5m96mlL8_1H8DKdQ-zA-9OlSV5NixuqBl0gsFJ_G/s320/DSC04128.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407123629951649762" border="0" /></a><br />Essentially, from what I understood, this was all about a trade war of sorts between the French and English on the one hand, and the Argentines on the other, over import taxes. Needless to say, the Argentines were successful against such an alliance and yesterday was all about demonstrating this to the public. It was very interesting – and most unexpected – to be wandering around the Casa Rosada, a lovely old-style colonial building. I even got to stand on one of the balconies where so many Argentine leaders have made – usually impassioned – speeches to the throngs gathered on the square. It’s interesting how the tour is set up: the first room you go into is a homage to great Argentine women. 10 or so accompany the one you would expect to see in such surroundings, and I found it interesting that this was the first element of the tour. Although on reflection their current Presidente is of course a woman so that might have influenced thinking as well!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0U-GJENOj_OX4T3L0wImh0Gcs_79Qy1OzH2jqojiTFflv1YiO6x5q21N0zE28es4ptZrjmORri0S9cF8gj6520R_1Jz0KaiCV5E0ZIXlKE8F_SwA2w3r0ZuPEEdtcOxtY1Yzz-Jd7CygO/s1600/DSC04115.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0U-GJENOj_OX4T3L0wImh0Gcs_79Qy1OzH2jqojiTFflv1YiO6x5q21N0zE28es4ptZrjmORri0S9cF8gj6520R_1Jz0KaiCV5E0ZIXlKE8F_SwA2w3r0ZuPEEdtcOxtY1Yzz-Jd7CygO/s320/DSC04115.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407123626575919650" border="0" /></a><br />Looking out from the balcony you get a birds eye view of the Plaza de Mayor.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwDspVTf0jndct7TrWqYHxc1D6nTFCVh9-G6nYpTzIgydRUV7LVFPa-jOfWyT2DGF8IQcBXw39tkRFxihc2vsbM4UDVKfGNNKo1_sGvggGdba9CV5Lj46bpUx6BB5ELpUNoJLBuZbQR1sH/s1600/DSC04100.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwDspVTf0jndct7TrWqYHxc1D6nTFCVh9-G6nYpTzIgydRUV7LVFPa-jOfWyT2DGF8IQcBXw39tkRFxihc2vsbM4UDVKfGNNKo1_sGvggGdba9CV5Lj46bpUx6BB5ELpUNoJLBuZbQR1sH/s320/DSC04100.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407123619381699794" border="0" /></a><br />As with Avenida de Mayo it has a certain faded charm to it, and certainly a feeling that it is a “lived in” square, from the Mothers of the Disappeared (harking back to the last dictatorship) to the ex-Malvinas (Falkland) soldiers camped out there.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YyLNho2rY1lum8mIXzkwYK4soJjAgKMkCjmo_dLoJ_0RFQeLZgxlN5LOUG0upuvzo59C7dNFKcBw0uNHZ3Sadd6TZLfaAur6CvcxGnWW9ADW17yM5KYp44ds28wkbY5jBelxfkZ5kWiS/s1600/DSC04083.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YyLNho2rY1lum8mIXzkwYK4soJjAgKMkCjmo_dLoJ_0RFQeLZgxlN5LOUG0upuvzo59C7dNFKcBw0uNHZ3Sadd6TZLfaAur6CvcxGnWW9ADW17yM5KYp44ds28wkbY5jBelxfkZ5kWiS/s320/DSC04083.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407123614403425746" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4k4ixKlk4RcVR2b0OSxK3O3cAIBrzDujsTGpFWUQrb62-VdGIqYZmvu-kWYlrMxkCbdek-8JrYYS8OAjwcfLmjLH7OIhvu4Ijei9juigiqbIdnEb3ZCMjPRRr9OxsmqMxgXkmcjPNq7_p/s1600/DSC04131.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4k4ixKlk4RcVR2b0OSxK3O3cAIBrzDujsTGpFWUQrb62-VdGIqYZmvu-kWYlrMxkCbdek-8JrYYS8OAjwcfLmjLH7OIhvu4Ijei9juigiqbIdnEb3ZCMjPRRr9OxsmqMxgXkmcjPNq7_p/s320/DSC04131.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407126135883281538" border="0" /></a>Moving back up the Avenida de Mayo, I checked out the wonderful Metro line. Getting on at the “Peru” station was like being transported back 100 years or so – and that was before the metro arrived. All varnished wood and no visible sign of any health and safety provisions given that the doors were opened manually with a quaint message informing people not to open them between stations! From an old style metro, I was back then back in very familiar surroundings at the Tortoni Café: familiar not in the sense that I had been before, but familiar by its Art Nouveau décor – it could have been the Horta House on rue Americaine! So much for crossing continents!<br /><br />I had met family friends David and Graziella who very kindly showed me around the town in the evening: from the aforementioned café, once a favourite of intellectuals, poets and writers, and now tourists, to a tango-dinner show!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTR4IB_nqXuJe6LoBov4d1_fFZyJjjiGcNLmas1E3LJtuMQlpJR5TUQFN_k9UdLUPKEzWGbqE_ewqSIc3mt9spGbv5Gj08wP1z-bWmDLITiiwzUxNErj0GSFfl5GzHhSdyAIweW0IwyVij/s1600/DSC04138.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTR4IB_nqXuJe6LoBov4d1_fFZyJjjiGcNLmas1E3LJtuMQlpJR5TUQFN_k9UdLUPKEzWGbqE_ewqSIc3mt9spGbv5Gj08wP1z-bWmDLITiiwzUxNErj0GSFfl5GzHhSdyAIweW0IwyVij/s320/DSC04138.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407126140718523266" border="0" /></a>This had been one of my must-do activities (alongside a football game – watch this space for the return visit) and it didn’t let me down. The <a href="http://www.buenosaires.com.ar/esquina_homero_manzi_4.html">Homero Manzi</a> appears to be something of an institution, and located right in the centre of one of the city’s tango quarters. But before the tango came the food and by god those Argentine steaks don’t disappoint! At least 3 if not 4 times as big as the usual Brussels fare and with no fat at all. Despite purposely not eating since the plane I was unable to finish mine…that’s how much there was. And then the tango.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwusxTdaTdR2yxhLD-CncjZ1-p4DwVIP6fyxNYGWXt-Jwl6URvv9E2gQua4b2Un2UyYA-idU9SoRYshIpmUbg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />A five-man band, three dancing couples and two singers took us through a range of tango styles. I was very pleased to be able benefit from the local knowledge provided by David and Graziella.<br /><br />This morning I decided to check out the port area, not for any particular aesthetic reason, although they say it has been cleaned up a lot in the recent past, but rather to check out a tallship with more than a passing connection to my upcoming travels.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9BT4eAcNG6mIiLPevJ7OJZBnFgwuvLgp9eatnwc0jZYuiaZubR9Fr4TTGo0gDX8J-FRmHxwP4yJbGmAs4XSHuq3unOVKnSE3eGR3BZOk2MmcLNxkU4i43SDzIsH6BEh-iBNFaBvDBW0D3/s1600/DSC04142.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9BT4eAcNG6mIiLPevJ7OJZBnFgwuvLgp9eatnwc0jZYuiaZubR9Fr4TTGo0gDX8J-FRmHxwP4yJbGmAs4XSHuq3unOVKnSE3eGR3BZOk2MmcLNxkU4i43SDzIsH6BEh-iBNFaBvDBW0D3/s320/DSC04142.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407126142636751250" border="0" /></a>The “Corbetta Uruguay” is an institution in Argentina: well this is what I thought until my taxi driver couldn’t find it….!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35-xODubSZGBmiYusvIeIRsSvmXgCA3ZX8fhli8KVniN2Khc4Uhh21UpT0q70-PykB5Ti4aldVDhKjDhwkBam3h8ezxHbbHAWhcW9aNWfLk1hNpv0UwItUL6t9kAiQnBkK-vJ1J2562Ew/s1600/DSC04145.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35-xODubSZGBmiYusvIeIRsSvmXgCA3ZX8fhli8KVniN2Khc4Uhh21UpT0q70-PykB5Ti4aldVDhKjDhwkBam3h8ezxHbbHAWhcW9aNWfLk1hNpv0UwItUL6t9kAiQnBkK-vJ1J2562Ew/s320/DSC04145.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407127435553213426" border="0" /></a>It was the first iron ship operating in Argentina (built back in the UK naturally) and in 1903 came to the rescue of the Swedish scientific expedition, Nordenskjolk, around the Antarctica Peninsula.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXb64Ac8DKPwic3jhZ2bANsF5t3amnQ8AiEQlwcTyMGHNE-deYtL2N2MOUcWdmVAYgitfVOAt2frp80zajA7z7dNlW38aJ3UrCf9KuFySQcLSgRW6vv4KyhKRXfI7jWrksPm3iia9msG0/s1600/DSC04146.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXb64Ac8DKPwic3jhZ2bANsF5t3amnQ8AiEQlwcTyMGHNE-deYtL2N2MOUcWdmVAYgitfVOAt2frp80zajA7z7dNlW38aJ3UrCf9KuFySQcLSgRW6vv4KyhKRXfI7jWrksPm3iia9msG0/s320/DSC04146.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407127442788456882" border="0" /></a><br />Thanks Jess for putting me on to this, it was very interesting to see the ship and explore its history. As I stood on the deck I swear I could already anticipate the sway and motion of a tallship on the high seas. It was before midday so it clearly wasn’t a case of too much vino<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvrw-ZVUuA8pNWWgmbwF1fVaxnIgBtuMbY9gu-5MUGk0fo0olJKapT_T3ZaKBqXzVMNJpOGVna9WRI4mnImplxd02JkjKPdB25dIIzXbGDrBb5UbWkvfKif68vthpFXbnF1zqDcaxa6WYO/s1600/DSC04143.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvrw-ZVUuA8pNWWgmbwF1fVaxnIgBtuMbY9gu-5MUGk0fo0olJKapT_T3ZaKBqXzVMNJpOGVna9WRI4mnImplxd02JkjKPdB25dIIzXbGDrBb5UbWkvfKif68vthpFXbnF1zqDcaxa6WYO/s320/DSC04143.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407127431239117154" border="0" /></a>I have now moved south and am in El Calafate. It’s 23h00 and only just getting properly dark. And cold. My clothing investment is one I’m increasingly content with. Tomorrow is acclimatization day before trekking on the Perito Moreno on Tuesday...Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-42362818410374024632009-11-16T04:23:00.000-08:002009-11-25T06:12:39.863-08:00Antarctica - Final PreparationsRight, I can't quite believe it but it's only five days until I set out for Argentina and onwards to Ushuaia and then Antarctica!
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvjFcqLZOYMp7b5zNRv8poBBUQMPVySyzBEeqOl_AWTHlk5MkuVhT-B-lDrkbjJBl1M3IFBMNRdKxPXk0MWR19GCVsbW3_SPGyPwrkVaUiBYp7m7Jr0PCM0bBtE6j60La2B7LBbd_HMQS/s1600/61_1245836403__1e70528c6bb87ad6b7bc22ba6dffeaaf.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 204px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvjFcqLZOYMp7b5zNRv8poBBUQMPVySyzBEeqOl_AWTHlk5MkuVhT-B-lDrkbjJBl1M3IFBMNRdKxPXk0MWR19GCVsbW3_SPGyPwrkVaUiBYp7m7Jr0PCM0bBtE6j60La2B7LBbd_HMQS/s320/61_1245836403__1e70528c6bb87ad6b7bc22ba6dffeaaf.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5405873764290780082" border="0" /></a>
<br />Final preparations. Well yes indeed, I better pull my finger out. On the plus side, I think I have sorted all the equipment and clothes - I had to buy from scratch, not being a particularly sporty cold weather bod (well adapted for Antarctica then...!) and it set me back a bob or two... I'll have to commit to activities which will require use of this gear on my return... watch this space!
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<br />Now, in the final few days up to departure I'm wading through the piles of information I have on all the fantastic places I'll get to see. I'll be slowly adding in some commentary, but the list below is the places I'm down to check out on the boat.
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<br /><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/index5.php"><span style="font-weight: bold;">A fantastic interactive map of the Peninsula!</span></a>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Part of my inspiration:</span>
<br /><a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/7966683.stm"><span style="visibility: visible;font-family:arial;" id="main" ><span style="visibility: visible;" id="search"><em>BBC "Top Dogs</em>: <em>Adventures in War</em>, <em>Sea and Ice</em></span></span></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/7966683.stm">" </a>(I'll let the reader decide which bit...)</span>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Departing down the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beagle_Channel">Beagle Channel</a>:</span>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Crossing the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drake_Passage">Drake Passage</a>:</span>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Hopefully arriving at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aitcho_Islands_%28South_Shetland_Islands%29">South Shetland Islands</a>...</span>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/yank.php">Yankee Harbour</a>:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee_Harbour</span>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/pend.php">Deception Island</a>:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deception_Island</span>
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<br /><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/mikk.php"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Trinity Island:</span></a>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinity_Island</span>
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/gouv.php">Enterprise Island</a>:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enterprise_Island</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/neko.php">Neko Harbour</a>:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neko_Harbour</span>
<br />
<br /><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/boot.php"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Lemaire Channel:</span></a>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lemaire_Channel</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Penola Strait:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://www.lonelyplanetimages.com/images/125200</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/pete.php">Petermann Island</a>:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petermann_Island</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Port Lockroy:</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Lockroy</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/dori.php">Dorian Bay</a></span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><a href="http://www.oceanites.org/visiting/melc.php">Melchior Islands</a></span>
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<br />Leaving Brussels on Friday November 20 2009...
<br />
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaMf0timW_swtOWuzORI4LuZx9GCmFogzRQr-SQYnhnLrwz_7m6cdaCDSzTH41-ZpUoDQMRJ6wU1rsMYkJIxuZfVvwOGRK3xmPdfQ5S9mahT6PkBoS3EELujlEjtyBqwR4-RKaJuAg4QR/s1600/DSC04078.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaMf0timW_swtOWuzORI4LuZx9GCmFogzRQr-SQYnhnLrwz_7m6cdaCDSzTH41-ZpUoDQMRJ6wU1rsMYkJIxuZfVvwOGRK3xmPdfQ5S9mahT6PkBoS3EELujlEjtyBqwR4-RKaJuAg4QR/s320/DSC04078.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408043386560296242" border="0" /></a>
<br />Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4186171433727932094.post-56485542554041809652009-08-11T12:56:00.001-07:002009-11-19T09:52:24.575-08:00Europa to AntarcticaSomething a bit chillier than the South Pacific island hopping from last summer:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.barkeuropa.com/en/fotoboek/album/61/">http://www.barkeuropa.com/en/fotoboek/album/61/</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAt68mQO_cw7fHz8P-Ya8B1P4cfSGQdcsnzOUyjtJXxdsFgEGLO_L45xn1v5ZOIxiJMqkV1utyJs-EaV9SCc4gnU9K0IdDocUBWfRVHOtDKYB8LCwYTvCthVhLq09ilPgW3BfLBWDnIlg6/s1600/61_1245836410__3617ed450aad55d64b9c08613bef1998.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAt68mQO_cw7fHz8P-Ya8B1P4cfSGQdcsnzOUyjtJXxdsFgEGLO_L45xn1v5ZOIxiJMqkV1utyJs-EaV9SCc4gnU9K0IdDocUBWfRVHOtDKYB8LCwYTvCthVhLq09ilPgW3BfLBWDnIlg6/s320/61_1245836410__3617ed450aad55d64b9c08613bef1998.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5405873976145247554" border="0" /></a><br />And a bit longer to wait while the rest of Belgique disappears on their jollies, but well, it will definitely be worth it....<br /><br />Updates to follow once the nights have drawn in and Belgium's autumn and winter is trying to impersonate the Drake Passage....<br /><br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jld5pIUKhCE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jld5pIUKhCE</a>Hedgehoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18323097221215979975noreply@blogger.com1